I got some swarm lures and would like to find out how to best use them. do you put them inside trap? or outside? Do you put the trap in a tree or on soom blocks in the middle of a field? If any of you have had good luck with this, I thank you for your advise.
mrsteam21
Admittedly, this is going to be my first year using swarm lures and swarm traps. This year I'm going to have out apiaries where I can't be around to watch the bees and catch any swarms that may (will) happen.
So, here's the mechanics to them, as I understand it:
Honey bees *prefer* a container of rough "bark-like" texture, approximately 10 gallon in size, placed 50' to 100' feet from the target hive, and about 10' to 15' feet off the ground, and placed in a relatively shady spot. Pheremone swarm lure should be placed INSIDE the container (or trap), along with some drawn out (but empty) wax comb. If one doesn't have pheremone lure, lemongrass oil on cotton balls and placed inside of a pierced plastic bag can sometimes be substituted. This is the ideal swarm trap.
Okay, now with THAT out of the way... There are THOUSANDS of stories about honey bees living for YEARS inside of the gas tanks of abandoned cars! Certainly, they're not 10' feet in the air, nor do they contain any sort of lure. Why they choose there, you'll have to ask them!
Do bees need a "peat pot" style swarm trap? Absolutely not! The ones Dadant sells are 3 gallon, so they're not even the ideal size. (3 gallon IS the ideal size for Africanized Honey Bees, however, but that's another post.) I've personally seen everything up in the air from wooden nucs to cardboard computer boxes. They all seem to work to varying degrees.
For myself, I'm going to be using leftover cardboard nuc boxes. I'm planning on placing them on a makeshift "2x4 tripod", which is attached to the shady side of a tree located nearby my hives, about 8' to 10' feet up. Inside the trap (nuc) will be a frame of drawn, but empty, comb, along with a few sheets of undrawn foundation. A vial of swarm lure I picked up from Brushy Mountain, will be pinned to one of the frames.
Good luck to you, and hopefully we don't lose too many swarms to the trees!
And, if anyone has comments or suggestions regarding my plans, I'd be more than welcome to them!
BDDS
So, here's the mechanics to them, as I understand it:
Honey bees *prefer* a container of rough "bark-like" texture, approximately 10 gallon in size, placed 50' to 100' feet from the target hive, and about 10' to 15' feet off the ground, and placed in a relatively shady spot. Pheremone swarm lure should be placed INSIDE the container (or trap), along with some drawn out (but empty) wax comb. If one doesn't have pheremone lure, lemongrass oil on cotton balls and placed inside of a pierced plastic bag can sometimes be substituted. This is the ideal swarm trap.
Okay, now with THAT out of the way... There are THOUSANDS of stories about honey bees living for YEARS inside of the gas tanks of abandoned cars! Certainly, they're not 10' feet in the air, nor do they contain any sort of lure. Why they choose there, you'll have to ask them!
Do bees need a "peat pot" style swarm trap? Absolutely not! The ones Dadant sells are 3 gallon, so they're not even the ideal size. (3 gallon IS the ideal size for Africanized Honey Bees, however, but that's another post.) I've personally seen everything up in the air from wooden nucs to cardboard computer boxes. They all seem to work to varying degrees.
For myself, I'm going to be using leftover cardboard nuc boxes. I'm planning on placing them on a makeshift "2x4 tripod", which is attached to the shady side of a tree located nearby my hives, about 8' to 10' feet up. Inside the trap (nuc) will be a frame of drawn, but empty, comb, along with a few sheets of undrawn foundation. A vial of swarm lure I picked up from Brushy Mountain, will be pinned to one of the frames.
Good luck to you, and hopefully we don't lose too many swarms to the trees!
And, if anyone has comments or suggestions regarding my plans, I'd be more than welcome to them!
BDDS
Lures should be placed two or three inches above the entrance on the inside of the trap.
Avoid placing traps in middle of fields, scouts tend to search landmarks, sheltered areas and other highly visible objects. Landmarks such as large trees and buildings are more attractive to searching scouts. If you do need to place them in open areas, position them along fencerows or on an old piece of farm machinery, up in a tree etc.
We have more on trapping swarms in the file section at Feralbeeproject.com
Best Wishes,
Joe
Avoid placing traps in middle of fields, scouts tend to search landmarks, sheltered areas and other highly visible objects. Landmarks such as large trees and buildings are more attractive to searching scouts. If you do need to place them in open areas, position them along fencerows or on an old piece of farm machinery, up in a tree etc.
We have more on trapping swarms in the file section at Feralbeeproject.com
Best Wishes,
Joe
--Honey bees *prefer* a container of rough "bark-like" texture, (BDDS)
A rough bark like texture probably not necessary, however, there seems to be a propensity for swarms I catch to select thicker walled traps.
--approximately 10 gallon in size, placed 50' to 100' feet from the target hive, (BDDS)
Lures can be used in several ways which mean different things to bees.
To use a lure to ‘settle a swarm’ 50’ to 100’ would be correct. And positioned at that
distance can ‘encourage’ the swarm to settle near the lure.
But to use a lure for trapping swarms, according to Seeley and Morse, they seldom
select a void closer than 300 m. Or further than 1500 m. with a average range of
900 m.
I’ve had a beekeeper complain that my lures didn’t work.
The swarm landed on his 5 frame lured bait trap in his
apiary, but then “flew away and did not accept the trap”.
I replied that "the lure worked!! the bees settled near the lure”
“Your bait trap is what failed in its position too close to the
apiary as well as in meager volume. In affect, your trap was not
sufficient in comparison to other voids found by scouts”
Best Wishes
Joe
A rough bark like texture probably not necessary, however, there seems to be a propensity for swarms I catch to select thicker walled traps.
--approximately 10 gallon in size, placed 50' to 100' feet from the target hive, (BDDS)
Lures can be used in several ways which mean different things to bees.
To use a lure to ‘settle a swarm’ 50’ to 100’ would be correct. And positioned at that
distance can ‘encourage’ the swarm to settle near the lure.
But to use a lure for trapping swarms, according to Seeley and Morse, they seldom
select a void closer than 300 m. Or further than 1500 m. with a average range of
900 m.
I’ve had a beekeeper complain that my lures didn’t work.
The swarm landed on his 5 frame lured bait trap in his
apiary, but then “flew away and did not accept the trap”.
I replied that "the lure worked!! the bees settled near the lure”
“Your bait trap is what failed in its position too close to the
apiary as well as in meager volume. In affect, your trap was not
sufficient in comparison to other voids found by scouts”
Best Wishes
Joe
swarms
My favoite trap is a 5 frame deep nuc box.
inside on the side bar of a drawn frame place a zip tie up just under the top bar.Tighten against your lure and trim excess.I use cut out combs when and were i can.
this frame is in the middle and one other drawn frame next too it.2 more frames are added w/undrawn starter strips and one plastic frame to the outside.
this is placed in the air 8-10 feet up. some are in trees some on poles some on old buildings.
all catch swarms.just like fishing it all works some days and some days it doesn't.
hope this helps.
bob evans
My favoite trap is a 5 frame deep nuc box.
inside on the side bar of a drawn frame place a zip tie up just under the top bar.Tighten against your lure and trim excess.I use cut out combs when and were i can.
this frame is in the middle and one other drawn frame next too it.2 more frames are added w/undrawn starter strips and one plastic frame to the outside.
this is placed in the air 8-10 feet up. some are in trees some on poles some on old buildings.
all catch swarms.just like fishing it all works some days and some days it doesn't.
hope this helps.
bob evans
BigDaddy said: "...trap placed about a HALF A MILE (900 meters) away?? Wow! It's amazing that they'd ever find it!"
The amazing thing to me is not only do they find it, but they find every suitable void for a mile or more around and then somehow co-operatively decide which one is best. That a group of insects can make a decision together is truly a wonder of nature.
Good Luck trapping - If properly placed you should have good luck. With careful placement I've gotten as high as 80% success rates.
The amazing thing to me is not only do they find it, but they find every suitable void for a mile or more around and then somehow co-operatively decide which one is best. That a group of insects can make a decision together is truly a wonder of nature.
Good Luck trapping - If properly placed you should have good luck. With careful placement I've gotten as high as 80% success rates.
>Anybody ever use swarm bobs in your yard to get swarms in the bivouac stage?
Yes. It's nice to have them on a low hanging branch instead of 30 feet up in the top of a tree.
Yes. It's nice to have them on a low hanging branch instead of 30 feet up in the top of a tree.
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