Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Solar Wax Melter

A relatively cheap way to render wax is to use a solar melter. The heat is free and a side benefit is the bleaching of the wax by the sun. The drawing assumes 3/4″ lumber.



The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Removeable Swarm Catching Frames

This hinged frame, that opens like a book, is designed to allow easy capture of feral comb that can then be placed into a conventional hive. Designed by Dee Lusby, it’s basically a split frame that is wired on both sides to hold comb in place. Once filled, the ends of the top bar are wired together and placed into a hive.



The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Honeycomb Uncapping Tank – USDA



The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Honey Heater



This converted chest freezer is an ideal size for heating up five gallon buckets of honey. Ideal for honey that has crystalized and needs reliquefying, this type of heater will do the job. The freezer used measures 19″ deep by 30″ wide by 28″ high (these are all outside dimensions of the chest not including the lid or base) and is the type used in ice cream shops. Find a size that will work for your needs and that costs little to nothing.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Miller Type Feeder
The Miller type feeder has the same outside dimensions as the Langstroth hive. It contains two feeding “trays” that can be filled with syrup. The bees can enter up the center crawl space and access both sides. Large amounts of feed can be given this way with no disturbance to the bees or the beekeeper as the wire mesh above the crawl space keeps the bees from exiting the hive through the feeder. The drawings assume 3/4″ lumber.



The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Slatted Bottom Rack

A Slatted Bottom Rack is a ventilation board that fits between the bottom hive body and the bottom board (Langstroth Hive). It provides cluster space for bees, allows air circulation without allowing a direct draft on the brood, and helps prevent swarming.



The Bovard Rack

It converts a standard bottom board into a Killion slatted bottom board so the queen will lay in the lower brood chamber.


CHARLES J. KOOVER
Altadena, Calif.

GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE – June, 1968


To the late Dr. C. C. Miller belongs the credit of realizing that bees need more room under the bottom bars. Sound as it was, the idea was never accepted by the beekeeping industry. He made two-inch-deep bottom boards and used them as long as he kept bees. Soon he discovered that bees build comb underneath the bottom bars, so the idea of a slatted rack under the frames was conceived. This served the purpose very well.


Carl E. Killion, one of his successors in comb honey production, discovered the principle of the four-inch-wide solid board instead of slats near the entrance. This was a most important improvement and it did away with bees chewing the combs along the bottom bars.


Still the deep bottom board and rack did not become the accepted standard of the industry. The reasons are easy to see. It takes two special pieces of equipment. The rack is fragile and is time-consuming to make. Furthermore, spacers have to be attached to prevent the bees from propolizing it to the bottom board.


In a moment of ingenious thinking, Richard F. Bovard of Honolulu, Hawaii, has eliminated all these objections and has created the ideal entrance to the hive without changing in any way the equipment now in use. He has come up with the idea of a two-inch-deep frame of the same dimensions as the hive body, 16-1/4 x 20 inches. In this are fitted the four-inch-wide board and a number of 3/4-inch-wide slats. Proper space of 5/16th inch is maintained between bottom bars and slats and between the slats themselves. That’s all there is to it. It is simplicity itself. It fits under the brood chamber on top of the bottom board. It is strong and asks no favors. It can be easily attached to the brood chamber and bottom board for migratory purposes. The Western beekeeper with his standard 3/8th inch entrance can use it and so can the Eastern beekeeper with his choice of a 3/8th or 7/8th inch entrance. This rack provides a single wide entrance clear across the front of the hive instead of three separate entrances as with the Miller rack. It protects the combs four inches back from the front entrance against robbers, wax moths and winds. There is nothing to be propolized onto the bottom board. And it is free from any objections, even the most critical beekeeper might raise. It adds but little weight to the hive, three pounds to be exact.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Bee Vac

“This idea has saved me hundreds of stings and saved the lives of a lot of bees (I wouldn’t pull feral hives without one). If you’ve ever tried to remove an existing feral hive without a bee-vacuum, I’m sure you’ve sworn off ever doing it again. Try it by vacuuming off the majority of bees first – then remove the comb one by one & vacuum the bees off each comb as you go. With less bees in the air & on the ground you’ll have less of a chance at any unhappy bee-meeting. Plus the bees seem to know they’re in trouble when you vacuum off most of their population – the rest will likely remain extremely timid. At the end of the day you’ll have more salvageable comb (put back into empty frames and tie with cotton string or rubber-bands) cleaner honey (without 1000’s of bee-parts) and a bunch more live bees.”


“The idea behind the ‘bee-vacuum’ is exceptionally simple in design and you’ll have much more fun in retrieving swarms or hives.” – Matthew Westall




The thumbnail images above are clickable, so you can see larger images, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below. The thumbnail is only page 1.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Apidictor

The late E.F.Woods was the inventor of the Apidictor.


“Sound engineers are familiar with a phenomenon known as the ‘cocktail party effect’. This is the ability of the human brain, in a room full of chattering people, to pick out and concentrate on one conversation, not necessarily the loudest. Eddie was blessed with this ability and it served him well when listening to the medley of sounds that his microphone picked up in the hive.


One sound that caught his attention was a sort of warbling noise that varied between the notes A and C sharp; that’s 225 – 285 Hz in terms of frequency. He noticed that this sound got steadily louder, then it stopped and a day or so later a swarm took off.


Eventually, he decided that it was made by the 4-1/2 to 6 day old nurse bees, his reasoning being as follows:


In a normal colony there are about 4,000 nurse bees, half of which feed the brood and the other half, the queen, who eats 20 times her own weight in a day.


When a colony decides to swarm, its first action is to reduce the supply of food to the queen in order to slim her down into a condition for flying. This puts some of the nurse bees out of work and reduces her egg laying. Hence, a few days later, there are fewer larvae to feed so more nurse bees become unemployed and the whole process is progressive.


The nurses have to get rid of the energy that would go into food production so they probably stand there exercising by flapping their wings, fanning in fact, but how do we account for the peculiar frequency?


In flight, an adult bee flaps its wings 250 times a second but when fanning, it grips the comb and this brings the frequency down to 190 Hz. (Hz is just an abbreviation for Hertz which is the engineer’s word for ‘times a second’.) However, a young bee’s wings do not harden completely until it is 9 days old and until then the resonant frequency is higher. It may be that 4-1/2 day wings resonate at 285Hz and the 6 day old ones at 225Hz and the sound is a mixture of single frequencies rather than a collection of warbles from individual bees.


Eddie built a simple audio frequency amplifier with microphone and headphones and incorporated what is known as a bandpass filter. This allowed the frequency band 225-285Hz through to the ear and blocked off the rest, making it easier to hear.


Note that the flight frequency of 250 Hz falls in this band which is why the tests should be made in the evening after flying has stopped.


Eddie stressed that the warble does not necessarily indicate a swarm; it indicates that the queen has gone off laying and there could be other reasons. In any case, it means a brood nest inspection is needed.


If you give a hive a knock with the flat of the hand, the bees hiss at you and this is something that Eddie listened to very carefully. Under normal conditions it is a short sharp noise, lasting about 1/2 a second, starting and finishing quite suddenly; the bees are alert and defensive. If a swarm is in the offing, the bees are in a happy-go-lucky mood, the sound is not so loud, rising and falling less sharply. Eddie described this as a loyalty sound and he fitted another filter to help pick it out.


With this instrument he found he could get up to three weeks warning of swarm preparations and was alerted 10 days before queen cells were started.


He fitted the instrument with a 3-position switch for listening to the normal hive noise, the warble and the hiss. With added refinements he called it the Apdictor, patented it and marketed it in 1964, selling about 300 worldwide.


The reason it never caught on, I suspect, is because most beekeepers were non-technical and very conservative. How often have you heard them say, “It was good enough for my father and it is good enough for me”? Nevertheless, those beekeepers who mastered it swore by it and some are still in use today, 36 years later. Last year I was instrumental in getting faults cured for two users who were anxious to get faulty ones working again.


Today we live in a more technical world with advances in miniaturisation, chips and so on and I think such an instrument would be more acceptable.


Indeed, my vision is of a detector in every hive with a little transmitter that sends a signal back to base whenever the warble exceeds the critical level.


Having ‘inherited’ many of Eddie’s papers, I have been able to study his work over the years, have written a small book about it and can supply technical data if anybody happens to have an Apidictor that needs repair.”


– T.R. Boys



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
Cleo Hogan Trapout

A Hogan Trapout can be used to remove a colony from a hollow tree or other cavity without destroying the object housing the cavity.

The attached 12 page PDF is liberally illustrated with photos. Here is one of those photos showing an adapter or tunnel used to close off a tree entrance so a hive body can be added to the opening of the adapter:



The thumbnail image above is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #33 · (Edited)
Review of Wood Frames for the Langstroth Hive
Author: Barry Birkey, Editor: Sarah Bass, Date: April 13, 2015

[Attached below is a PDF file of the page that was previously located on the Beesource 'Home page' (and not part of the forum itself). That material was lost when the changeover to Xenforo forum software occurred. This PDF was created from the page copy at Archive.org]






The thumbnail image of the first page of the PDF file is clickable, so you can see a larger image, but to download the actual full PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

Save
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Electric Fencing Guide
Author: NRCS / USDA

While the NRCS Guide is oriented towards cattle farmers, it is a reasonably useful guide for bee farmers as well.

To download the actual full PDF file to your system, click on the PDF attachment below.
 

Attachments

21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.