Sometimes even if the price is good, it isn't a good deal. If it works, and you paint it with foodgrade paint, it might be ok. I have seen some stuff used that I wouldn't want to use, but to each their own...I guess. With the price of gas, and all..........

 

If I didn't have the money to buy a stainless I'd go ahead and get it. Clean it super good and remove the rust, then coat it all with a generous helping of Camcote(food grade epoxy coating_$11 per quart and it goes a long way), it's available form Brushy Mtn. Let it sit a couple days then extract some honey. If they are asking $50 you can surely get it for $40.
Tom

 

Thanks for the advice. Camcote paint up here costs 40 dollars per can plus shipping, it is available in Eastern Canada. Is it healthy to just scrub it real good and use it? What kind of solder did they use in the old galvanized extractors?
Kim

 

No, it is not healthy to just scrub it and use it, would you eat something that came in contact with a rusty surface? More than likey it has lead solder, which is also unhealthy.....you have to think of your customers, and the rest of us who sell honey, we don't need a bad rep.

 

Nope, not me.

 

I've got a couple of old galvanized hand crank extractors that were given to me. My wife won't let me use them even if I wanted to which I don't. Here in Maine, if you want to sell your honey you need a food processing license and I've been told that there isn't a snowball's chance in hell the inspector will approve a galvanized extractor.

 

I must be out of the loop, but what is wrong with using a galvanized extracter?

 

There's nothing wrong with using a galvanized extracter, if it is given the correct treatment, namely painted inside and out with the paint mentioned above. But, it needs that treatment to protect not only your family, but also the people who buy your honey. It's like making maple syrup in a galvanized evaporator, it's not safe.

Here is a decent price for the poper equipment:

http://mannlakeltd.com/catalog/page2.html

 

You can also keep your eyes open for used stainless extractors on ebay or for sale by nearby beekeeping clubs. I got a used SS 2-frame for $50. It's home-built, and needed a good cleaning (and a few pieces bent back into place), but it does the job.

 

bkss,
40 dollars and shipping?

Can't you just call Kelley's (quart can for $10.50 U.S. 1-800-233-2899, item #353) or another supplier and have it shipped. It's not listed as hazardous or prohibited from normal shipping.

I used a galvanized extractor for the first few year untill I outgrew its usefullness. I coated with Camcote and the product does a really nice job. Never had a problem.

As stated, I would not use a galvanized without cleaning and properly coating.

 

"But, it needs that treatment to protect not only your family, but also the people who buy your honey."


Protection from what?

 

"But, it needs that treatment to protect not only your family, but also the people who buy your honey."


Protection from what?

Well....lead based solder for one, and the stuff that leaches out of galvanized metals for another. There is a reason that galvanized equipment is not used for raw food processing, but hey, if you want to subject your family to it, without painting it, that's up to you, but don't subject the paying public to it, because if they get sick and it's traced back to you, well, lets just say that it would suck to be you.

 

BKSSS,
I have a few thoughts; if you invest in a stainless steel extractor, say used off of ebay or used locally somewhere close to you, you can always sell it and get most of your money back. If you buy it from ebay and you need to dispose of it later, you should be able to get close to the amount you bought it for...the only thing you would be out is the shipping cost. Look for something close to you. Re-sale on galvanized equipment is not good because there is little demand for it, hence the low asking price you are getting.

In the end, my opinion would be to go with Stainless steel from the start. Avoid the health related issues that go with galvanized-lead and ensure your resale value so you can get your money out of it if things don't work out.

And think of your family/customers and the health related benefits.

I know many years ago, I brought about $750 dollars worth of galvanized-lead Maple Syrup equipment to the scrap reclaimator, rather then use it and subject anyone to the lead....it was a loss from what I had paid for it, but...ethically, it was the right thing to do.

 

I picked up a Dadant 2 frame manual SS, used once, for 100 bucks at the local flea market. They're out there.

 

I have this same style extractor that I purchased new for I think $250, you can also find them on Ebay. When things are galvanized they are coating the metal with Zinc, without a doubt there will be trace amounts that transfer to your honey. Do yourself a favor and just spend the extra money and get a nice Stainless Steel model that will never rust and is food grade, and is easy to clean up.

 

Thanks for all the great information. I will not be looking at the old used galvanized extractor. An estate had an extractor and other equipment for sale earlier this summer but I could never get in touch with the real owner, just his mother. Well I got lucky today and took another look at their equipment with the owner. They have a Jones four frame motorized extractor that has a PVC or some sort of plastic container. The baskets look a bit rusty but it should be easy to paint them with camcoat. I offered them 50 bucks for it. They wanted to sell all equipment: a galvanized heating unit, a galvanized holding tank, some sort of honey pump, and copper tubing with lots of soldered joints. I told them that I had no interest in the galvanized equipment. They even had an old four frame hand cranked galvanized extractor. This is all 7 miles from my acreage. Thanks again for the help, I was a bit suspicious about galvanized equipment but was unaware of its potential for leaching contaminants into honey.
Kim

 

I saw this ad in the West Virginia Market Paper, and I thought someone might be interested, so I am pasting the information.
Radial 12-frame extractor, elec., variable speed, .25 hp, mounted, includes 20 gal. heated bottling tank, $500/firm. Gene Idleman, 101 Hillcrest Dr., Elkview, 25071; 965-3070.

 

There's a SS 2-frame on ebay now starting at $10. For that price you could ship it to Timbuktu and come out ahead.

Edited:
Oops, it's up to over $60 now. That's why I dislike ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Honey-extractor...QitemZ150143754408QQihZ005QQcategoryZ46527QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I purchased a 1920's era galvanized four frame extractor for $25 from a very long-time beek in our association. I bought it because of the era and because it was in very good shape. I purchased the epoxy paint from Dadant for a few bucks. I have not yet painted it, but I will. I expect to get considerable use from this piece of equipment. All my research indicates that the epoxy paint is designed to seal this type of equipment, hence its availability from most prominent bee keeping suppliers. I, too, appreciate all the input from the many experienced beeks out there. Perhaps in the future, I will purchase a modern extractor, but for now, I will enjoy the old way.

 

Just found this post on the exchange, for sale, section:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?p=250635#post250635

 

Just bought and treated old galvanized: its great

I recently purchased an older/galvanized Jr. Bench extractor that was in perfect condition. Washed it, applied camcote. It is a very high quality piece of equipment with the kind of strong, metal gears they no longer make. It is a perfect solution for me, as the current food grade stainless steel rusts immediately in my high salt air, while galvanized holds up great. As long as it is coated, older high quality equipment may be worth consideration.

 

the current food grade stainless steel rusts immediately in my high salt air, while galvanized holds up great.

look into 316 grade stainless, it's extremely corrosion resistant, with galvanized
coatings you need to paint them within a couple days of the coating being
applied or wait at least a year, these time frames are important for adhesion

 

I have no fear of galvanized equipment in solid condition. The honey only runs thru the extractor for a few seconds. I would not use a galvanized settling tank, where the honey sits for days or weeks. I would not use any rusting equipment. As someone said, that old equipment is strong and solid compared to the new thin stainless and plastic junk.

 

I have no fear of galvanized equipment in solid condition. The honey only runs thru the extractor for a few seconds. I would not use a galvanized settling tank, where the honey sits for days or weeks.

My thoughts exactly. I don't think this is a big concern; most honey will never touch the sides of the extractor.
And the paint is a good solution if you're concerned...

 

how can you tell?

An old timer down the road is selling a 4 frame hand crank extractor. It looks very solid and in great condition - no rust but it has got to be 20+ years old. How can I tell if it is galvanized or not?

 

If it's not ss, plastic or rubber, then it is galivanized. Just be sure to paint the entire thing if you deciede to buy it.

 

I've got to be honest here, I think people simply over react to the whole galvanized thing.

If it's treated with epxoy food grade paint it's then effectively plastic.

It's not that long ago that galvanized stuff was used for EVERYTHING.

The Maine bee inspector told me that my extractor would be perfectly fine also long as it was treated.

K

 

I've got to be honest here, I think people simply over react to the whole galvanized thing.

If it's treated with epxoy food grade paint it's then effectively plastic.

It's not that long ago that galvanized stuff was used for EVERYTHING.

The Maine bee inspector told me that my extractor would be perfectly fine also long as it was treated.

K

It's the people who don't think they need to be at least painted that I am addressing here. I have found the galvanized extractors to be extremely well made, and heavy. Well worth buying as long as you paint them inside and out.

 

I have been thinking about galvanized equipment used in food production. My well has a 20 foot long galvanized culvert with a diameter of about 30 inches. All grain storage on the prairies uses galvanized granaries. Grains are stored for extended periods of time extending for over a year at times. As the seasons change the interior galvanized walls accumulate moisture from condensation. The grain absorbs this moisture …………. Hmmmm chemicals from galvanized granaries in our breads, cereals, etc. I cleaned out a galvanized granary this spring that had a ring of moldy grain along the floor where the metal meets the concrete. This was one rancid smelly crud that had glue like adhesion to the cement and tin. Some new granaries have an epoxy coating, it will be a long time before all grain storage has this type of coating. That is only two examples of food contamination from galvanized containers. I think we will see much more concern over this in the future from health care professionals, and government agencies. I am not a farmer, we have lived on an acreage for over 20 years and purchase 320 acres of farm land adjacent to our acreage. We rent the land out. I am all for proper clean handling of all food products and will not be using an uncoated galvanized honey extractor.

 

this is just my third year beekeeping and my first owning an extractor
I look at the way it's built and questions come into my mind
it's stainless, that's not the point
the bottom bearing is what concerns me
let's call the thing that holds the frames and spins around the "reel"
on mine the reel has a stainless shaft sticking out the bottom that fits into a fitting on the bottom which acts like a bushing, not a bearing, a bushing
so you get this metal on metal contact which is basically being lubricated by the honey
this is less than good
I'm using it now because it's what I have but I think I'm going to modify it and fit a sealed stainless steel bearing in the bottom
I spent my younger years as a machinist and I look at stuff and think "this could be done a lot better"
she'll be primo next year
how do other folks extractors handle this, what do they use for a bearing in the bottom (the honey end)

Dave

 

I'd be interested in knowing this as well. I just finished cam-coting the cage (and barrel) for my bicycle wheel extractor. Cam-cote goes a long, long way, even when deliberately applied heavily. No, I didn't have to do the barrel since it was HDPE food grade, but I was sort of on a roll. For my bottom bearing I stripped the grease from a cheap radial bearing and had planned to let the honey do the "lubricating".