I know many use fishing line in their foundationless frames instead of wire for increased strength of natural built combs. I go foundationless with no wire or anything, but would like to start using heavy fishing line especially in my medium depth extracted honey supers. Has anyone had any problem with the bees chewing through exposed fishing line, I know they can chew through rubber bands pretty well, just want to make sure before I go and string it through my frames. Thanks
wiring with fishing line
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When I used 10 lb test, the bees chewed through the line. It was actually pretty amusing watching them look like kites flying when they would tug and pull on it from outside the hive trying to get rid of it from the frames. I also tried using it to "wire" up some cut-out frames. It was too stretchy and the cut-out comb wouldn't stand straight up in the frames.
I switched to 30 lb test and it works great. After two years and 200+ frames, not a failure yet. I use an "X" pattern on both sides of crimped wire deep and medium foundations. After I thread it, I put two throws in the free ends and tighten it as much as I can. Then I draw the free ends over the corner where the side bar and bottom bar meet. Throw in a staple to secure it and done. One interesting pattern I found is when I hive a swarm or nuc with foundation only, the bees chew the wax exposing the "X" in the center of the frame. Seems to be less of a problem when I feed sugar syrup or add it in supers. Nice and stout for cut-out frames, too.
Hope this helps.
I switched to 30 lb test and it works great. After two years and 200+ frames, not a failure yet. I use an "X" pattern on both sides of crimped wire deep and medium foundations. After I thread it, I put two throws in the free ends and tighten it as much as I can. Then I draw the free ends over the corner where the side bar and bottom bar meet. Throw in a staple to secure it and done. One interesting pattern I found is when I hive a swarm or nuc with foundation only, the bees chew the wax exposing the "X" in the center of the frame. Seems to be less of a problem when I feed sugar syrup or add it in supers. Nice and stout for cut-out frames, too.
Hope this helps.
Well, shoot. I used fishing line on frames for the first time today. Just got done stringing some 12# through 30 frames. :doh: At least I won't be shocked when I see the bees tearing it out. Time to go out and get some heavier stuff.
It sure was a treat not to have to mess with eyelets and wire, though.
It sure was a treat not to have to mess with eyelets and wire, though.
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I have used both 30 lb and 17 lb with excellent results so far. The bees have not chewed thru it and have drawn out the comb right over it. They don't seem to mind at all.
Jim 134 - What problems did you have?
For anyone interested, I found this YouTube link for using fishing line, not how I secure the line, but you can get the general idea and adapt it to your needs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwYrT8XhKf4
I run the "X" on both sides with one continuous piece of line. Important to get it really tight like a bow string (self-embeds when warm.) I think the only purpose is to keep the foundation from bowing in the frame (from the warmth of the hive?) so the cells are equally deep on both sides.
For queen cell production, I remove the crimped wire from the foundation (bought a bunch with the wire and too cheap to buy more without wires!), then just "wire" with fishing line. Slick way to cut out queen cells with just a sharp knife
Always looking for better ways that are easier and save time. Anybody use the Bobby Pin method of securing the foundation or other tricks?
For anyone interested, I found this YouTube link for using fishing line, not how I secure the line, but you can get the general idea and adapt it to your needs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwYrT8XhKf4
I run the "X" on both sides with one continuous piece of line. Important to get it really tight like a bow string (self-embeds when warm.) I think the only purpose is to keep the foundation from bowing in the frame (from the warmth of the hive?) so the cells are equally deep on both sides.
For queen cell production, I remove the crimped wire from the foundation (bought a bunch with the wire and too cheap to buy more without wires!), then just "wire" with fishing line. Slick way to cut out queen cells with just a sharp knife
Always looking for better ways that are easier and save time. Anybody use the Bobby Pin method of securing the foundation or other tricks?
When I string wire I don't use eyelets.
I use 1/4" staples. Staple on the side of the holes the wire will pull to. I then use a quickgrip clamp to bow the sides slightly, pull the wire tight and staple down the loose end. Would go faster if I made one of those frame tensioners.
Mike
We use 12 to 15 lb. test. Never have a problem with them popping the line, but some will remove the foundation around the line in spots. Then they will back-fill with what they want. Usually it will be drone comb.
If you use line for foundation-less (yes they will draw through it) or for natural cell for your size of bee I should say, the hive has to be level and the frame must be straight, not warped. Usually the line will not be down the center. If you are not going to move the hive, like truck it somewhere, I don't see a need to put line in there anyway.
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