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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There's so much fantastic info on this site - thanks to all. I've read many opinions on wiring medium frames (I'm going to begin foundationless). Though it seems the wire is not necessary, I don't think there is a down side and I think I'll sleep better. Was wondering:

1. Brushy sells 1/2 pound and 1 pound wire. Any suggestions?
2. Eyelets: Seem like I've read more people comment that they're not necessary - thoughts on this given what I'm doing? They're pretty cheap (6 bucks for a thousand), so if it's not a pain to insert them into the frame and helps at all, I'd probably do it.
3. I think you need a smaller nail to secure the wire on the frame (wrap the wire around and pound them in): Google'd a guy who suggested 9 mm gimp pins. Not sure what they are or where they can be bought - any suggestions?

Thanks again in advance -

Jim
 

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I believe suppliers only sell one gauge of wire for frames. 1/2, 1 and 5 pounds are simply the weight of the spool (heavier meaning more wire). Depending on how many frames you plan to wire depends on how much you buy.

You'll want to make a wire spool holder. Basically a wooden cradle with a bolt through it that hold the spool with a piece of bent tin that presses down onto the spool and keeps it from free wheeling and unwinding wire all over the place. I try and find mine and post a picture.
 

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Try fishing line. There's a good video on youtube w/ fat bee man doing just that. It's easier to string, doesn't cut into the wood as badly (no eyelets) and if you need to cut the wires for some reason, the fishing line doesn't act like giant spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great advice all around - thanks to both of you!

My question about 'pound' of wire - shows how much I've got to learn :doh:

Appreciate it -

jim
 

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Get yourself a good, comfortable staple gun. 5/16 staples is what I use. Run the wire/fishing line thru the holes, pull it up and staple it to the frame, then tighten, and staple the other end to the frame... many of us do that.
Regards,
Steven
 

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Jim,

Did you want to wire brood frames, honey frames, or both? What extraction method are you using? (It matters)

You don't really have to wire medium honey frames if you are foundationless and if you are going to do crush and strain (instead of using an extractor). In fact, wiring would make crush and strain more difficult. Also, as I understand it, the older brood comb is less tender/fragile and doesn't necessarily need wiring either for medium frames. Some people will cautiously extract foundationless & wireless medium frames of honey. Older comb is usually stronger.

Just trying to say, you may not need to wire frames and it will save you a bunch of work. Eventually, you will know what you prefer to do by experience.
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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I'm not only too lazy to wire the medium frames, I'm too lazy to put up with wire in them. If they were wired, I'd remove it.. It only gets in the way when I want to cut out a queen cell or make some cut comb. The queen never likes to lay in the cells that have wire running through them. I see wire as a solution to a non existent problem that causes more problems...

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bee Bliss and Michael:

Many thanks! I'm running all mediums, and if I've got surplus honey in my first year, I'd probably extract it. My only thought on extracting vs. crushing is that if I extract it, I've got good comb to use for the following year. Crush and strain is simpler, but then you lose the comb.

I understand that the wire is absolutely not necessary for extraction, but may be of some help in keeping the new comb from sagging in the summer - but no facts on this. I also have this thought in my head that - try as I might to level the hives - things may not be perfect, and the wire might serve as a continued guide of sorts as the bees draw the foundation down, though I've not read this anywhere at all. I will put starter strips at the top, and perhaps this will be enough.

Again, I appreciate your input -

jim
 

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Barry, I like the idea of putting the additional nail in the side of the end bars to take out more of the slack, but isn't it kind of hard to hammer that nail in considering you can't really back up the side bar from moving other than with your hand, and what size nail do you use, or do you just let a long nail stick through the wood on the other side. Hope this question is clear. Thanks, John
 

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Fatbeeman uses fishing line because he can cut through it to get queen cells. It's not particularly durable, I know because I have about 25 of his frames in my circulation. You also can't embed it with electricity like you can with wire.

You don't need eyelets, but with nothing, the wire will not stay tight. I use eyelets on new frames because you really should put them in before assembly. I use staples to rehab the frames I did before I bought eyelets because it's quick, easy, and cheap, especially with used frames. Just staple right next to the hole where the wire would dig in and you're good to go.

I have a five lb. spool of wire because I've found that smaller spools make more squirrely wire. It has rusted a smidge over the several years I've been using it, but it's still just fine.

I embed the entire frame at once using a 12 volt battery. It provides good speed, but not so fast to melt through before I can stop it. I wouldn't want to use one of the ones that does a single wire at a time. Seems tedious.
 

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John -

I use the same nails used for frame assembly. I think they are 1". It's pretty easy to nail them through the side bars. I looked at a few of my frames and I see I just bent the nails over on the other side. You could just leave them stick out as well. Won't hurt anything.
 
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