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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Why use a FUME "board"?

I understand why we'd use a FUME board to empty your Supers etc... but was simply wondering why does it need to be an actual riser-like board assembly? Why not simply staple some flannel material onto a piece of plywood; spray it with BeeQuick and set it flat on top of the Super like the inner cover? Seems like that would still drive bees out and is easier to build than a 2" framed riser FUME board? Am I not understanding "how" they work correctly?

Thanks to Jimbo3 for spellchecking.... :)
 

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Try it and see if it works. Go with whatever you have or what works best for you.
The only thing I can think of is the product you use on the board needs space t create the vapors to drive the bees down, but I'm not sure.
Eric
 

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I understand why we'd use a Flume board to empty your Supers etc... but was simply wondering why does it need to be an actual riser-like board assembly? Why not simply staple some flannel material onto a piece of plywood; spray it with BeeQuick and set it flat on top of the Super like the inner cover? Seems like that would still drive bees out and is easier to build than a 2" framed riser flume board? Am I not understanding "how" they work correctly?

Thanks
Fume
 

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If the fume evaporator is laying right on top of the frames then only the material above the frame top bar spaces is open to the hive air. In other words the flat tops of the frame top bars shroud the evaporation surface area. If solar gain is working on the evaporator material, contact with the frames would be a heat sink.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Crofter - guess that makes sense to create air space to draw out all the fumes.
 

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Commercial fume boards also are made to be warmed by the sun and hasten the evaporation of the fumigate. I use them because they work well.
 

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Commercial fume boards also are made to be warmed by the sun and hasten the evaporation of the fumigate. I use them because they work well.
When I made mine using a 2" riser and a tin roof, old towel stapled inside I found that warming it the sun before applying the Bee Quick worked a treat. Also used my smoker at the same time to speed up the process. I could clear supers faster than I could load them into my truck! The best thing was not I could use a blow tourch to heat up the metal if the sun was behind the clouds.
 

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Re: Why use a FUME "board"?

I used a fume board this week for the first time, a Mann Lake solar model, with Honey Bee Gone. In the sun it worked well. Only a few bees left for the blower. Probably using two would be good so that they could stay on the hives longer without slowly down the crew.
 
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