[concrete-bees]

the reverible option is to take away the need for entrance reducers

most are 3/8" for fall winter and spring and 3/4 " for summer

this is so that you dont need to keep track of hundreds of little blocks of wood

 

[Ben Brewcat]

To make hiding places for black widows.

 

[Andrew Dewey]

Will a mouse/shrew fit through the 3/8 opening? Blocking them is one reason for reducing.

 

[Specialkayme]

A mouse can squeeze through a space 1/4 of an inch thick.

 

[tarheit]

I was always told that bees need more space to come and go in the summer when the population is large, then you flip it over in fall to reduce the entrance to keep out pests, reduce robbing, drafts, etc.

Honestly I've never reversed them and always use the small opening based on recommendations of a large beekeeper when I first started keeping bees. I honestly don't see a need for the larger opening and I even have a few hives that only have a 2 1/2" x 3/8" upper entrance and they have been just as productive as hives with much larger entrances.

-Tim

 

[Specialkayme]

Any problems with overheating with that small of an entrance Tim?

 

[tarheit]

There doesn't appear to be any problems. About half the bottom board is screened (though no entrance) and I used a ventilated inner cover on it.

-Tim

 

[mrspock]

According to Idiots guide to beekeeping, it's a summer/winter thing.

The larger is for winter to allow space for dead-bees... In the summer the smaller one is to be used so they don't build comb in the space.

Sounds like a lot of lifting.

 

[Specialkayme]

There doesn't appear to be any problems. About half the bottom board is screened (though no entrance) and I used a ventilated inner cover on it.

-Tim

Sounds good. I'm experimenting with an upper entrance only. I had to use a non-screened bottom board though. I'm beginning to get concerned that they may overheat. :/

 

[EastSideBuzz]

We make ours BB 1/2 in and we rip some one inch strips some 1/2 way across some with really small openings and some 3/4 across. We switch them in and out. It is the left over rips from making the bottom boards.

They are all Screened so the opening is just traffic control the SBB allows the ventilation.

 

[bermybee]

Honestly I've never reversed them and always use the small opening based on recommendations of a large beekeeper when I first started keeping bees. I honestly don't see a need for the larger opening and I even have a few hives that only have a 2 1/2" x 3/8" upper entrance and they have been just as productive as hives with much larger entrances.

-Tim

Tim same here was told the same nonsense. I use plywood and 3/4 inch strips of pine nail to a deep with a 3'' opening (easier for transport all so) and just a piece of ply for top with no inner cover.

 

[dcross]

Will a mouse/shrew fit through the 3/8 opening? Blocking them is one reason for reducing.

I've NEVER had them go through a 3/8" opening, have serious mouse problems with anything bigger including mice climbing a 3 deep hive to go in the upper entrance.

 

[sqkcrk]

mine aren't. palletized.

 

[Kingfisher Apiaries]

This may be a little off topic, but I keep reducers in year round. Does anyone else do this? I do it b/c one day we might have a flow, next day they rob each other.
:scratch:

 

[sqkcrk]

They were originally built w/ a summer side and a winter side. 3/8" side for summer. The otherside for winter. According to Dr. Doolittle's 1908 publication "A Year's Work in an Out-Apiary".

 

[Barry]

Are you sure about that Mark? I believe it's the other way around. 3/4" side for summer to give plenty of room for foraging bees, and 3/8 side for winter, enough for ventilation and small enough to keep mice out.

 

[sqkcrk]

Page 1 of the previously sited book reads "As I use the Dr. Miller bottom board, the same having a two-inch-deep side for wintering, and a three-eighths-inch-deep side for summer,..."

Didn't look right to me when I read it. And if I hadn't just gotten this book and looked at it when this Thread Question came up I would have said the opposite. Some more reading is required to find out why. Or if Dr. Doolittle made an error in his book.

 

[Joseph Clemens]

Here is another link to a similar quote: Dr. C.C. Miller Bottom Board Described.

------------

For me bottom boards are not reversible, nor are they synonymous with "entrance". In other words my bottom boards are not entrances.

 

[biggin]

3/8" is the magic number for keeping mice out. I build all of my bottom boards (screened) with a 3/8 opening and never have I had a mouse problem. No muss No fuss! As romco says "set it and forget it"