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When to move my trap?

1280 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Cleo C. Hogan Jr
I have had a trap out for over a month with LGO. A few lookers, but no success. Should I move it somewhere else? It is about 12' in the air near my bee yard.
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You'll get a lot of differing feedback on this, since we're all in wildly differing climates.

My own limited experience is that there will still be swarms after the 'normal' Spring swarm season. They'll need extra feeding and attention if no forage is available (I had to feed like crazy and donate some brood and eggs to build up a late June swarm...they didn't make it through winter). So, this year I've decided to work backward from the date at which the Fall flow in my area typically ends. In my case, I figure October 15 minus 70 days (about three brood cycles) to get a time in mid July for removing traps. This assumes everything goes well (ha!), and also assumes that I'll be feeding syrup and patties to any swarm caught after the Spring flow is over (now) and up to and maybe beyond the Fall flow. The backup plan is a combine with another hive, to avoid weakening stronger colonies in favor of another that might not overwinter.

I guess that I'm saying my approach is to think about available resources and feasibility. My thinking is likely flawed in some way. I'll probably leave my traps up until early August. The closer to that date I get, the more likely it is that I'll just do a combine if something comes my way.
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Freshen the LGO weekly - I just tap the bottle a few times on the entrance hole- and leave it there if you have scouts. Build more traps out of scrap wood if you have other likely spots. You dont need a hive body for a trap.

I use top bars in mine because I run top bar hives. Makes Transfers super easy! Just move the bars to a hive, sweep the remaining bees into the hive, close the hive and put new bars in the trap. All done at night on the tailgate of my pickup. I do it at night to get all the bees and not lose any foragers. But you can do the same thing with frames.

All my traps are about 6 feet high on tree trunks. I have caught 6 swarms this year, and 15 last year. The traps work fine lower to the ground, and they are MUCH easier to remove at night when occupied, and to keep freshly baited.

Given you're in Bastrop there will be blooming vegetation well into the fall and some all winter long. I keep my traps up through the end of September.
I never take my traps up. Leave them out year around. All mine are on plastic tubs about 2 1/2 feet high. If a late swarm goes in, and I don't find it, the bees have as good a chance of making it there as somewhere else. And, after all they choose where they want to stay.

I have caught swarms as late as 6 October, and by giving the a few frames of honey, they make it through the Winter.

Only problem with combining is, you add bees to colonies that are already weak and short on stores. The swarm likely has a better chance of making it than a weak colony that has been weakened by varroa, failing queen, poison, etc.

cchoganjr
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