GG: "Conceptually I want the design to also be "wall Hive" compatible" - this makes it hard for me to understand your needs. Does this mean "in a wall type alcove? Or against a wall?
So far I have learned, to my surprise, but then again not so surprising as I learn more about H2O and hives. THe hives get much more humid, high RH numbers, in the winter even though the winter air is typically dry and cold. When brood rearing is copious quantities, like Spring, the RH really goes up along with temperature while the outside is high RH or damp and chilly. In summer, for hives that are foraging as the dominant task ( defined by observations) or big early foragers I see low RH values with high temepratures. It all make sense to me now or so I think. Besides seasonal changes, colony condition
From these observation using the various changes to insulation techniques I have used. I came up with two application requirements. First, the insulation has to be easy to work with as I find quick access during the early Spring on queen status is very important and then of course the rest of the year. Second is adaptability to seasonal effects. Examples are the hive grows upward, do I need more ventilation for foraging hives, more insulation for a hive with queen issues and brood rearing, access to sensors I install, what to do with the insualtion if it coem soff for a while.
Preliminary design, inside out:
1) pine wood boxes and frames are needed as a moisture absorber or buffer, especially in winter ( just like a tree).
2) paint boxes with acrylic paint - it breathes better than other paints or no paint as the bees propolizze ht inside very well.
3) use an 1 1/2 inch spacer at the top for sensors and cotton tee shirts - equivalent to a quilt box and you can put a hole(s) in it with plugs. Underneath the spacer I use a 12 ox duck cloth as an inner cover. Bees really propolize this heavily, build columns to hold it off the tops of the frames ( amazing) and I push a long stem thermometer through the cloth to probe further down. The propolis is water vapor permeable but with suck cloth prevent and droplets from driping - a non-existent event for me now.
4) An air gap for the vertical sides. An air gap of 1/2 to 1.0 inches - I do not like putting a vapor barrier on the cold side of the wooden boxes - condensation and rot.
5) 2-inch, R10, XPS foam box glued together and painted white, 5 sided box by 24 inches deep. 24-inches covers most of my winter brood chamber of a medium+deep+medium.
6) For winter, I stuff the air-gap with open cell sponge foam. It has a big effect on air gap temperatures. Bees seem to take water from the foam after it rains . Foam was removed around mid-May here.
7) Building new bottom boards with removable screens and removable sticky boards, support for XPS shell, lifting points for hive weighing.
8) New addition coming - sleeve modules, 4 sided, to add as supers are added.
Important point ( I think but unproven), I like a cold bottom board as a condenser for winter moisture ( don't see much). The screened bottom board is necessary fro my OAV Dead Drop Counts, useful as an alternate air path if I close up the entrance with a wet cloth or when moving a hive. Even with the sticky board in place there is ventilation when snow covers the entrance ( not a big issue here especially being retired). The spacer plug can be removed if desires and also a top plug in the foam if so desired. ( still trying to find a description of CO2 and snow, which has liquid water interactions). Maybe I need a CO2 sensor at the bottom to learn.
This approach gives me quick access. When the shell is removed I get a table top to work on. So far it is staying on as an insulating shell ( thus no need to paint boxes in the future). It is adaptable for venting (not needed so far). The prime function of the top vent, IMO, is the winter snow issue of burying the entrance. In time I will work on a bottom vent stack design that is vertically adjustable - hives are up high in a tree for reason.
This is how far I have evolved - happy with results - love early brood rearing and capped Spring honey - high rate of survivors two years in a row (disease based loss). Soon I will have to plot data and device an improved test plan. Bees keep surprising me with what they can do when given a chance. Suggestion - buy cheap weather station sensors with remote transmission capability and look at your hives around you house each morning from your chair with a cup of coffee and look out at the snow. I am starting night time readings soon using a pencil to data record.
Best of luck in your design approach. Hope this helps.