A frame is 1-3/8" wide at its widest point, but the bees don't draw comb out to the widest point. Otherwise, if we butted two frames against each other, there would be no bee space between them. There would be no space at all.A frame is 1 3/8. Bee space is 3/8, and you want it on both sides of the frame. 1 3/8 + 3/8 + 3/8 = 2 1/8. Seems about exactly where your ruler is.
1 3/4" is just the right amount of space between the glass for an observation hive. 1 7/8" is ok.
This is what happens when one responds, with math, before finishing that first cup of coffee, miss the details and get the wrong answer.....A frame is 1-3/8" wide at its widest point, but the bees don't draw comb out to the widest point. Otherwise, if we butted two frames against each other, there would be no bee space between them. There would be no space at all.
I sent a message last night to Mann Lake asking about 1) the exact clear space between the glass, and 2) whether or not a frame feeder is included. I hope to get an answer, soon.How long will it take them to burr up the inside face? Will there be so many bees up there with the extra space that it makes it hard to see eggs, larvae and maybe even the queen? Better spacing is probably worth the switch to a correct one. This is killing me because I had a brand new one from Mann Lake in my hands a month ago and I didn't measure it.
They never answered my email, but they answered the phone right away. :scratch: Must be old school.I sent a message last night to Mann Lake asking about 1) the exact clear space between the glass, and 2) whether or not a frame feeder is included. I hope to get an answer, soon.
Assuming that answers are good, I'll probably buy the Mann Lake one and return the Brushy Mountain one. But I'll wait until the ML arrives before I put the BM one in the return mail, so I can compare them side-by-side, with photos.
Well, that makes sense. The more I learn the more I realize that these are not meant for permanent placement of bees. I have a book where the author keeps a (different type) observation hive inside and the bees leave via a plastic tube through the windowsill. It looks pretty neat, but it seems like an almost guaranteed swarming situation, which something I want to avoid, especially in my first year. So I'll probably take your advice and use it for short term study, only, and for transportation, if needed. Thanks again!>Ulster Hive as a short time nuc, right?
The problem with it outside is controling the temperature in the queen portion of the hive. If you put them down in the nuc and not in the "queen" portion this isn't so much of a problem. If you keep them inside, then the issue is that things could be going badly and you can't see what is happening in that bottom box.
I think that sounds like good advice in general, but I'd like to have a couple of years of experience under my belt before I try this. We live in an apartment, and I'm not sure if my girlfriend would appreciate having a hive indoors! I want her to have a good experience with me keeping bees! There is a possibility I could do something in our basement storage room, which has a window to the outside. However, to begin with I might just bring in a frame now and then from the outside to see if I can learn something. This first year I only have one hive in our yard, and if it turns out I really enjoy keeping bees, I'll be setting up a few more hives next spring on some land that's recently become available to me. Thank you kindly for your comments, though; much appreciated!I think every beekeeper should have an observation hive in their house and you should let them swarm at least once so you can watch it happen. Normally you can avoid it. You can see everything that is happening in a one frame deep observation hive so if you let them swarm it's because you're not paying attention.
So I finally put this to use back in June, putting a small captured swarm into it for a presentation to my son's youth service club. In general it worked very well, but with a few niggling faults that I may try to remedy during idle time this winter:Other than the bee space issue, the only improvement I'd make to the ML hive is I'd put the latches for the top cover on the vertical ends, like it is on the BM version, so that I can screw a handle to the top of the lid and lift the whole hive with it.
As ML hive works now, attempting to lift the hive by the top cover causes stress on those latches perpendicular to their design.