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TREAT or FEED

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I have always harvested honey, then treated, and later fed the bees. I am running single deeps and a local beek told me I am doing it backward. I shoud feed and then treat. First year with singles (not a good year) and he may be correct as they have a limited supply of honey and necter in one single deep. Any thoughts
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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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I am not well versed on single deep hive management techniques but I don't know that it makes a lot of difference. I feed when the the dearth starts and start treating at the end of July. Here in Richmond, the nectar flow stops cold around the 4th of July, so light hives and hives that I have split from get fed. In that regard, I feed and then treat. But local conditions should dictate what you do. If you have a fall flow, you might find yourself treating as soon as the honey supers come off, then feeding to get plenty in the deeps, and putting the supers back on in August.
 

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I must be missing something; why is it an either/or question? Why can't you treat while feeding or feed while treating?
 

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Good point. To properly answer Plannerwgp's question, we need to know what kind of treatment he is asking about.

Me, I'll feed with any of the non repellent treatments such as the synthetic strips, I will not feed with repellent / disruptive treatments such as formic or thymol based treatments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking I’d Mite Away scrips. I have at least 5 hives that swarmed and I restarted with new queens. I will feed them only and not treat as they are weak and had a brood break.The other hives need treatment and feed.
Good point. To properly answer Plannerwgp's question, we need to know what kind of treatment he is asking about.

Me, I'll feed with any of the non repellent treatments such as the synthetic strips, I will not feed with repellent / disruptive treatments such as formic or thymol based treatments.
 

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OK well MAQS is disruptive to the hive and can interfere with their ability to defend themselves. So wouldn't do both at the same time.

Re the weak hives, it's best to determine why they are weak. For example, if they are weak because of a heavy varroa mite infestation, feeding them syrup could kill them via robbing, the varroa mites should be sorted first, then the hives allowed to recover, then feed.

A brood break stops mites from reproducing for 2 or 3 weeks, it does not in most cases reduce the infestation by any great amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had 5 or more hives swarm proably due probably to my use of single deeps and horrible weather this year only. After severl of them had swarmed twice, I gave up on a new queen returning and inserted a new queen. I took the chance of the new queen being killed but to my surprise it worked on 3 of 4 hives. These hives are very slowly building and very weak, so I am going to feed and skip the mite treatment for as long as possible. I used single deeps with an excluder because the season was starting so late. Willgo backto 2 brood boxes next year. I will check into Apivar also.
 
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