I would like to use top jar feeders. I have not seen any lids with holes in the top from any of the suppliers. Is this a matter of cutting a hole in a migratory lid to fit the jar lid. Any direction for how to accomplish this set up would be appreciated.
As far as the lids fitting the placement holes, should be pretty snug if the right sized migratory lid. I thought they came with pre-cut lids. I'd use the method below, however, use the jar lid as your circle pattern. If you have a hole saw large enough to match the jar lid, I'd do that.
While manufactured solutions can be nice for some folks, I would say what you posted is one of the simpler ways to to accomplish this.
I make a circle like that by drawing the circle to cut out first, then use a drill to get an opening, then use a jigsaw, using said drill hole as a starting point, to cut out the circle from the inside.
Do you have a drill press? Do a search for a circle cutter at Harbor Freight. I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight tools but the cutter with 2 blades they sell does a good job. Cost around 6.00$ I think.
I use some top feeders. Only problem and it not really a probelm. When you remove the feeder most of the time bees are still on the jar. I have caused a hive or two to get really upset. Other problem, if you dont use a big jar it wil get sucked down quick by the bees. I use this method to feed bee here at my house. But yard that are away I use large front entrance feeders.
I got a hole cutter from Lowes to make the top cuts............
I use the 2 and 4 qt versions of this. Bought the originals at Kelley's then made my own. Just place on top of the inner cover, surround with an empty box and I'm done. And it's nice not having to worry about the occassional hot head bee when when I switch out the jars!
I got mine at home depot around 4.00 as far as lids dadant's got them they cost more then canning lids but have lot better seal. cutting out with jig saw will not give you a good seal in your lids. rain will get in. use the small nail that come with your frames one that goes in to the cleat bar. 2 holes is plenty only poke just the tip thru
remember if you fill the jar watch the temps they will freeze and break
Solder a 3/16-copper tube 3/4-1 inch in length -to a mason jar lid-once you have the lid made you can use it on many different size jars -from pint to gallon and in-between .the hole required for this is only 1/4inch bees will deal with that on there own -dont make the tube to long-RDY-B
If you order in quantity some suppliers will predrill them for you. I got a hundred migratory nuc covers predrilled to fit a standard mason jar lid last fall. Or, if you only have a few, as suggested here, a good hole saw will do the job.
If the syrup pours out, your holes are too big. The first time I saw 2 liter bottles used, it was in a commercial yard of 100 hives. Endless supply, get the hole size right and they won't blow off when empty and no cleaning as with buckets. If syrup goes bad, throw them away.
An alternative that hasn't been mentioned is to put some strips(about 3/8 inch) directly on the top bars. These keep the holes available for the bees. Then you can put more than one jar or up to a 2 gallon pail feeder. Then put an empty deep super over this. Add some pollen sub while you're at it.
I had the same problem (sun heating the airspace and causing the bottle/jar to leak. I made a surrounding cover for the inverted bottle out of aluminum foil and it seems to have solved the problem (though I have not yet tested in summer, on the other hand, I don't expect to be feeding in summer!).
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