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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I winter in singles and 3 of my colonies have 5+ frames of honey still. Maples just finished and willows are starting so i have seen nectar\pollen in all hives.

Should i pull some frames and replace with drawn comb or ?I

Thanks
 

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I would add a box of drawn comb. You don't want your brood nest to get honey bound.
 

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Is it safe with temps in upper 50s, lows in lower 30s?
Your profile does not show where you are. From those temps you are probably a little more north than I am. But, if your bees are flying and bringing in pollen and nectar then I would think you should give them more room to store it. Have they started brood rearing? Are all your frames covered with bees? In my area, if I give a new box to a hive without enough bees to actively protect the added box the small hive beetles will take over. If your brood nest becomes honey bound then your bees can not expand their numbers because the queen has nowhere to lay.

If you identify your part of the country, someone with local knowledge will probably give you better advice.
 

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It is a problem. Brood combs are hard to extract. The extracting room is cold. The brood combs have had miticide contact. Brood comb honey is 2nd grade and can have brood comb scent.
 

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If you are going to be doing splits those frames would be good ones to go there. You dont say whether they are capped honey or from sugar syrup. If you are going to put supers on you have to decide whether you want to prevent them moving it up. Scraping off cappings roughly and roughing up a bit of the cell wall structure will encourage them to use it up or move it.
 

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I would take a couple of them out to save for later, either splits or give back during dearth.

Alex
 

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if you have comb, place a box of comb "Under" the hive as to allow space And not change the thermal profile of the hive this early.
with out comb Look at OSBN threads.
I would take either frame 1 or 10 out, keep it in the fridge or freezer.
Slide frames over till you have the first frame with brood, place your 1 empty frame just out side the first brood frame.
this will offer space, not split the brood nest, and encourage comb building.
Check in a week or 2, if started, or 1/2 built, monitor, if more than 1/2 built offer a second right next to it , toward the outside for the new second frame, putting another full frame in the freezer or fridge.

you need to help them get more space to lays eggs in and not disrupt the dynamics of the brood nest.
by the time you need the 3rd frame the first one should have brood, it can then be put in the center of the nest.
end goal:
1 frame of honey in position 1 and 10
partial honey and brood in 2 and 9
less honey more brood in 3 and 8
almost full brood in 4,5,6,7
so best guess you have 4 frames to do, the honey frames can be used for splits or packages or given to a weak hive in the fall.

keep in mind the time this takes will allow the bees to collect more honey.... Ideally an Excluder and super of comb is added when the dandelions start to bloom, so the new honey goes in the super and the brood nest continues to expand. As well each frame of brood hatching will add 2 frames of bees to the hive.
given space the bees may even move some honey themselves.
take care to not squish the queen, for the first 2 frames there is no NEED to go beyond the frame next to the nest, ergo should not be to the queen yet.

there are worse problems in the spring than honey bound, it does need to be resolved however.

GG
 

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We had a mild winter with eucalyptus bloom and our deep and medium 1 1/2 story brood chambers have many with the whole top story solid honey plus a few deep combs below also. We have extracted 11 buckets so far but gave up extracting until we enclose the supers in a heated tent inside the extracting room. The honey is too cold as the nights are cold. We had put supers on the strongest hives and a few of them got filled also. The ten frame Jumbo depth brood chambers need 4 frames swapped for empty. Once dried by hives these extracted brood combs make ideal bait hives as they smell so inviting of freshly extracted honey. But the slow extracting and filtering is a nuisance and the honey barely pays for the labor.....and has to be sold which is a nuisance also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
if you have comb, place a box of comb "Under" the hive as to allow space And not change the thermal profile of the hive this early.
with out comb Look at OSBN threads.
I would take either frame 1 or 10 out, keep it in the fridge or freezer.
Slide frames over till you have the first frame with brood, place your 1 empty frame just out side the first brood frame.
this will offer space, not split the brood nest, and encourage comb building.
Check in a week or 2, if started, or 1/2 built, monitor, if more than 1/2 built offer a second right next to it , toward the outside for the new second frame, putting another full frame in the freezer or fridge.

you need to help them get more space to lays eggs in and not disrupt the dynamics of the brood nest.
by the time you need the 3rd frame the first one should have brood, it can then be put in the center of the nest.
end goal:
1 frame of honey in position 1 and 10
partial honey and brood in 2 and 9
less honey more brood in 3 and 8
almost full brood in 4,5,6,7
so best guess you have 4 frames to do, the honey frames can be used for splits or packages or given to a weak hive in the fall.

keep in mind the time this takes will allow the bees to collect more honey.... Ideally an Excluder and super of comb is added when the dandelions start to bloom, so the new honey goes in the super and the brood nest continues to expand. As well each frame of brood hatching will add 2 frames of bees to the hive.
given space the bees may even move some honey themselves.
take care to not squish the queen, for the first 2 frames there is no NEED to go beyond the frame next to the nest, ergo should not be to the queen yet.

there are worse problems in the spring than honey bound, it does need to be resolved however.

GG
Great plan. Thank you
 
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