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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm keeping a close eye on the room in my hives because I've seen SHB. I checked the hives on June 2nd. This hive had 4-5 frames of undrawn comb. I hoped to get back into the hive June 6th or 7th to add a box, but I got ill. I checked the hive June 9th instead. In the top box was 5 queen cells full of jelly. In the second box was 3 more jelly filled queens cells and one capped. I didn't have time to check the third box. We had thunderstorms coming.

I put the top box in it's own hive and added a feeder. I figured they already swarmed. Someone saw a swarm flying across the property.

I put the hive back together with the 2nd and 3rd box. This is an 8 frame hive.

Do I need to feed the old hive with the one box removed? How many hives can I make from all these queen cells. All the frames I checked were stuffed full of brood and stores. I'll check the old hive the 10th or the 11th for a queen to see if the swarm that flew away was actually mine or not.
 

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I also had one swarm. I was able to make 3 nucs from the 3 frames that had queen cells on them. I will check them today and make sure that all of the queens returned mated and are laying eggs. If any of them didn't return I'll combine the unmated nucs and see how many new colonies actually started.
 

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I'm keeping a close eye on the room in my hives because I've seen SHB. I checked the hives on June 2nd. This hive had 4-5 frames of undrawn comb. I hoped to get back into the hive June 6th or 7th to add a box, but I got ill. I checked the hive June 9th instead. In the top box was 5 queen cells full of jelly. In the second box was 3 more jelly filled queens cells and one capped. I didn't have time to check the third box. We had thunderstorms coming.

I put the top box in it's own hive and added a feeder. I figured they already swarmed. Someone saw a swarm flying across the property.

I put the hive back together with the 2nd and 3rd box. This is an 8 frame hive.

Do I need to feed the old hive with the one box removed? How many hives can I make from all these queen cells. All the frames I checked were stuffed full of brood and stores. I'll check the old hive the 10th or the 11th for a queen to see if the swarm that flew away was actually mine or not.
If you have 3 8 frame boxes, I would think 6 4 frame splits can be done if you have 6 frames with queen cells.
I did 7 splits from a 3 10 deep this spring, 3 queens confirmed laying yesterday. 4 more to check tomorrow.
Also if you have a hive with a poor queen you can either add a cell, or hatch and get the queen mated to do the replacement.

Keep in mind the feild bees will go back to the origional location, so some extra bees in the splits and a Light main location is a good start.
do not shake the frames with the Q cells.

GG
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have 3 8 frame boxes, I would think 6 4 frame splits can be done if you have 6 frames with queen cells.
I did 7 splits from a 3 10 deep this spring, 3 queens confirmed laying yesterday. 4 more to check tomorrow.
Also if you have a hive with a poor queen you can either add a cell, or hatch and get the queen mated to do the replacement.

Keep in mind the feild bees will go back to the origional location, so some extra bees in the splits and a Light main location is a good start.
do not shake the frames with the Q cells.

GG
Thanks for the input. I won't shake the queen cells. I didn't think of that before. What do you mean by "light" main location?
 

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The bees probably only half cover the frames now of the 16 I looked at.
IMO 4-5 frames make a "good" split 16 could be 3 splits, depends if you want more splits or want to try for a good queen, 3 chances is better that 1
You would need the NUCs or boxes to split into. so also could depend on what you have available to split into.

just place the brood frames in the center of the split with bee/stores frames on the sides to buffer the temp swings.

GG
 

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What do you mean by "light" main location?

when I do splits I generally have the origional location as 1 of the splits. The feild bees will return to the origional location. Therefor you can have that split a little light on bees as they will gain some from each split. Like 1/4 to a 1/3 will go back most of the feild bees

If you move them to another location (+3 miles away) then they reorient to the split location.
Each method has pluses and minuses.

GG
 

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no matter I've got a queen, can put it somewhere else, sell it, add frames of brood to it etc.
ok
i have a 2 frame with new queen , debating leaving it alone or adding to it.
So sounds like the 2 frame is a mating situation and you do different things post mating
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Each method has pluses and minuses.

GG
What are the pluses and minuses?

Also, I checked the last box on that original hive today. It didn't even have all the comb drawn yet, maybe 1/3 empty. The top two boxes were stuffed. So, I guess I'm not sure why they swarmed. I'm not super disappointed to lose that queen because those offspring were testy.

I ended up making 3 from the one. The smallest is a 4 frame medium nuc. I assume I'll have to move that to an 8 frame soon....or do I wait for them to have a queen first?

Thanks, everyone for all the input. I really appreciate it. I've had bees for 3 years, but this is the first year I've gotten them to last over winter and it seems to come with a whole new set of challenges. :)
 

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What are the pluses and minuses?

Also, I checked the last box on that original hive today. It didn't even have all the comb drawn yet, maybe 1/3 empty. The top two boxes were stuffed. So, I guess I'm not sure why they swarmed. I'm not super disappointed to lose that queen because those offspring were testy.

I ended up making 3 from the one. The smallest is a 4 frame medium nuc. I assume I'll have to move that to an 8 frame soon....or do I wait for them to have a queen first?

Thanks, everyone for all the input. I really appreciate it. I've had bees for 3 years, but this is the first year I've gotten them to last over winter and it seems to come with a whole new set of challenges. :)
Plus and Minus to the 3 feet or 3 miles

3 feet, + close, + near the other bees if you need a frame of stores or brood, + easier IMO,,,,- heavy drift of field bees back to the original location.
3 miles or more, + no drift so what you make is rather consistent,, - need to pack up the NUCs and move them, taking some pallets or blocks or short 4x4 6x4 etc to put them on, then bring them back later. IF you are aware of a good DCA then this could also be a plus.

"I ended up making 3 from the one. The smallest is a 4 frame medium nuc. I assume I'll have to move that to an 8 frame soon....or do I wait for them to have a queen first?"

IMO do not mess with them till the queen is mated and laying. be 21 days for her first bee to hatch once she starts laying, so if it is a Q cell you have time before they crowd. Checking gives room for OOPs 's One I did this year is open to check a nice cell i put in a NUC, the bees had attached it to the next frame, When I pulled it, the Cell torn in 1/2, ruining it. Also if she is out mating and returns when you have it open she may think she is in the wrong spot. Also opening a NUC can lead to robbing. Make them . then let them bake till the laying starts. Several sources of calendars out there to consult. In General 16 days to hatch then a week to 10 days to start laying, 26ish days I generally say a month from the egg stage, as a good first guess. so soon is like 21 days or so :)
 
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