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I need to know what you guys are using for a gas driven syrup pump? I read the previous threads and bought a 5 hp with a pacer pump and it took over an hour to pump 55 gallons with 67% sugar, needless to say I returned it. I do not want to spend th $$ for a mann lake or dadant unit, and was thinking about a trash pump. Anyone got any thoughts on anything working for you? Seen the compresed air systems, but I want a gas pump. Thanks!
 

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http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu.../tri-global-4-hp-2-in-semi-trash-pump-2196001

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu...ure-relief-valve-1-2-in-npt-0-650-psi-2106705

T the valve into the outlet and plumb it back to the inlet.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicl...cessories/1-manual-leaded-fuel-nozzle-3958189

these are a standard pipe thread so you can hook as many togather as you'd like. Two normally do the trick, for the 3 or 4 times it won't, a shuttle bucket will.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicl...accessories/1-x-14-fuel-transfer-hose-3958286
 

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Agrisupply offers a corrosive heavy liquid pump on a 5.5 hp I think, with electric start UNDER 300 bucks. Look into it, I dont have the link anymore, but last month they still had them.
 

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Made ours probably 12 to 15 years ago.
5hp gas motor, a 4" or so pulley & a 2" pulley.
6" of 5/8" keyed shafting & 2 stamped steel 5/8" pillow blocks
A 3/4 teel gear pump & a adjustable pressure relief valve with provisions for a gauge.
A little higher priced than the ag pumps but much more durable!
Pumps 55 gallons in around 12 minutes or so at a fast idle.
Light weight & easy to move around ect.
Real tough to beat a good gear pump for moving that thick 55% stuff.
 

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Hey dbest thanks for the TSC links, ive been looking for a pressure relief valve like that, not sure our old one is working right. One suggestion, replace the gas valve with a nice heavy brass gate valve with a lever and about a 2' piece of galvanized pipe screwed on the end. It works so much better,you don't have to squeeze the handle or bend over, you can reach farther and also can shove it farther into the feeder if there is comb obstructions.
 

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The Mann-lake pump is a Yamakoyo but only costs a few hundred if you buy everything separately and assemble yourself.
 

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The threads on the tube for the gas valve are standard pipe thread. I put a 3' piece of pipe on the end. I've been trying to find a dead man type valve that doesn't drip. Its a pain having to either wait for the syrup to run out of the pipe or, letting it run all over the place.

Hey dbest thanks for the TSC links, ive been looking for a pressure relief valve like that, not sure our old one is working right. One suggestion, replace the gas valve with a nice heavy brass gate valve with a lever and about a 2' piece of galvanized pipe screwed on the end. It works so much better,you don't have to squeeze the handle or bend over, you can reach farther and also can shove it farther into the feeder if there is comb obstructions.
 

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There is a knack to doing it neatly but it can be done, I insist on it when robbing can be a problem. When doing side by side feeders on pallets you can move it quickly with hardly a drip (not sure, ours might be more like 3' as well). If you are moving it farther you just need to tilt it up over the hive. I first started using this setup when my pump went down and had to borrow one from another beekeeper for a day, started out thinking I wouln't like it and within a few days we all agreed it was time to modify both of our other pumps. I agree that having the valve on the end would probably be an improvement if it could stand up to having comb jambed up into the end regularly. In any case give the gate valve a try for a day, sure beats holding the handle up which can be tiring with a bulky bee glove.
 

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3/4" full flow ball valve ( american made )
3' of copper pipe with 3/4 male end on one end % solder a dam or restriction on the other end so when when the pipe is turned the drip is almost reduced to zero while moving from side by side feeders on pallets.
 
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