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Syrup in cold temps

4K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  beepro 
#1 ·
We are putting out 100 packages in a day or 2 and I want to have the feed all out so I don't have to reopen the hives to do it after hiving them. What issues (if any) will I have with cooler syrup ? I do have honey in some of the combs in each hive, so they can eat that if the syrup is too cold for them.
Daytime temps are around 1-5 C

Thanks
 
#4 ·
What type of feeder are you using to feed the bees?

If it's a frame feeder, you may be able to get the syrup warm enough by putting it in the south position. Between thermal gain and bee heating interior of hive, you will likely get the syrup warm enough. Close entrance down to 3/4 inch so you draft minimal heat out.

Don't imagine you are getting a lot of flying at 5C. If temp gets warm enough to fly, there's numerous types of open feeders. The large rubber totes with a lid looked interesting. Put float material in such as wood sticks and straw and fill with syrup. Drill a number of 3-4 inch holes in front side of lid so bees can access syrup. Could just install a days supply of warm syrup before bees fly. Could take tote inside in the evening to keep syrup warm and once you know daily consumption just add that amount of warm syrup each day. You don't have to move in doors each evening that way. Put tote in a sunny location out of the wind.

There was a thread about a month ago.

Other options are 5 gallon pail feeders put out each day, barrel feeders, V pig trough style, and I'm sure there are more.
 
#5 ·
Gallon baggie feed, Ben.
I gave each hive a bag on top of the hive frames. You can use a cardboard square
to put the bag on also. Of course, I put an empty super on top of the existing hive too.
 
#6 ·
Frame feeders is what I am using with a float in them, some of them are ladder with the wooden cap, but this year I bought the open ones and using a float for the packages. I have a large syrup tote but I haven't anywhere to store it in a warm spot, so I guess I will wait and see, most frames have honey in them and some are a full frame of capped honey.
 
#7 ·
In that case, take the syrup inside the house where it is warmer than the outside temp. I don't know if you have
the 5 gal. bucket or not. 5x10 = 50 gal. for 50 hives. Don't know if those inside feeders are the 1 or 2 gal feeder?
I have a big stock pot here 55 gal so can warm up some syrup to mixed with the cold. You have a metal drum?
Then put the warm syrup inside the hive feeders. The capped honey frames they will not open it to eat in colder temp.
They rather use it to keep warm than eating the honey. But with the syrup they will eat and store away the extra.
 
#10 ·
Yes, definitely next to the cluster as possible. On the edge will get cold faster and the bees not willing to
travel that far for syrup because the colder the temp. they cluster tighter together in the middle of the
hive. For some reason they like the middle rather than clustering on the edge. Since you have the syrup
might as well give them patty on top of the cluster and the dry sugar too to take some of the
moisture out. They will have lots of moisture for sure because of the syrup inside. I don't like the temp.
you are having now. Better get beezy to prepare for them now.
 
#12 ·
When I was hiving packages in cool spring weather, I was always expanding and put the packages on last years wet extracted frames with a honey frame from a winter deadout in the middle. You might consider spraying or dipping a couple frames in syrup for each brood box you have to set up. That initial start is the problem until the bees get organized, or was for me as I shook packages with six inches of fresh snow on the ground. Those ten bees clinging to the wire in the box always broke my heart but they just would not let go.
 
#14 ·
Too much work! 100 hives x 10 frames in each box? 1000 frames!
He'll be exhausted by then. Even if not that many the syrup will not
last long with this method. More good, practical suggestions please.
 
#17 ·
I misread the amount of honey the op had. Looks like a lot so yes I agree scraping so of the middle frames should be adequate. Warm weather can't be that far away.
Dgl not a big fan of frame feed either that's why I still have a couple of 100 wrapped in plastic. Tuition in the school of hard knocks is expensive.
 
#21 ·
Good idea, Roland. You are not that crazy after all! Haa! Have to add that one.
Spraying the frames with a paint sprayer would be a snap. Figured it might take an hour
or so. I think this one will work, Ben.
 
#24 ·
Time is an issue for me, I currently still work a full time job and I use every single moment to do something related to the bees, I manage to fit in some time to get on beesource and sleep occasionally LOL
I will be mixing my syrup up today and keep it in the 5 gal pails as long as I can before dumping into my tote, there will be some Honey frames with granulated honey and wet frames from last years extraction + some dry frames with pollen. I haven't much choice but to hive them with somewhat warm/cool syrup. The patties will be warmed up a bit before putting on the cluster though, that is easier than moving the tote inside :)
Hopefully this is the last time I will have to buy packages !!
Oh and the frame feeder is the 3rd frame in, not against the outside.

I am going to use Michael Palmer's method of being sustainable and run a lot of nucs in my operation, our climates are very similar according to the videos I have seen. AlsoI think it just makes more sense to me

Thanks
Ben
 
#25 ·
When I say warm I meant at room temperature. It is better than taking syrup colder than that.
I still think living in a snowing country it is better to keep the bees inside a small shed away from the
elements. Then you have something to compare to. Inside a hollow tree is a lot different than inside a 1" box.
Maybe next year you don't have to buy bees anymore. Have you consider using locally survivor queens to head your
packages? We do it here all the time asking to buy qc or mated queens on CL.
 
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