What do yall think is the best direction to place your swarm traps? I place mine pointing away from the prevailing wind. And, how far out from your hives? One friend places his right beside his hives, and has always caught bees. Other sources say to place them 750 ft to 1000 ft away from your hives.
swarm traps
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I'd opt for the distance further from the bees. I've had them at various heights and different directions. All of them, at one point or another, have caught swarms. The more I hang swarm traps, the less I think I know.
Best analogy is like fishing. Some days you catch them, some days you don't. But you still keep putting the bait out there.
Grant
Jackson, MO
Best analogy is like fishing. Some days you catch them, some days you don't. But you still keep putting the bait out there.
Grant
Jackson, MO
You will get many opinions on this. I put out 3 last year. High/Medium/Low to the ground. Used a Deep, medium, and a nuc. All faced southeast. 2 got sun first thing in the morning, one not unitl 10ish. All 3 were miles away from my yards. I put them in places I saw bees working hard looking to catch ferals. I didn't do my set ups as a test. It's what I had and a good place to set them. I caught swarms in all. I don't think it so much the placement as it is the bait. If they are baited good you will catch a swarm.
For now on. I will put them at 6' and lower. The high one was a pain.
For now on. I will put them at 6' and lower. The high one was a pain.
Drawn Comb and lgo.
I use 1-2 frames of drawn comb (Older Darker the Better) per trap. If you want to put out multiple traps and don't have much comb to spare, cut the comb in sections and attach with rubberbands. Then I put a drop or 2 of lgo on the comb, the top of a frame and the entrance. Repeat drops every 3-4 weeks. Never had to repeat drops.
Here is one from last year. This comb was fresh comb. Maybe 4-5 week old drawn comb I took from another hive that I used rubberbands to attach. Swarm moved right in.
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I use 1-2 frames of drawn comb (Older Darker the Better) per trap. If you want to put out multiple traps and don't have much comb to spare, cut the comb in sections and attach with rubberbands. Then I put a drop or 2 of lgo on the comb, the top of a frame and the entrance. Repeat drops every 3-4 weeks. Never had to repeat drops.
Here is one from last year. This comb was fresh comb. Maybe 4-5 week old drawn comb I took from another hive that I used rubberbands to attach. Swarm moved right in.
I have a small problem, in that I have the paper mache traps from Mann Lake. I hang these on the side of tree trunks, with wire, so I cannot just put a frame of comb in them. I do have some wild comb, that I can put in them, but have not figured out a good way to do it. I am thinking a small wooden frame, of some sort. I have the pheromone lure and LGO. yesterday, I put the LGO in a trap that is still out from last year. I took 6 or 8 Q-tips, and dipped them in the LGO, and just threw them through the hole, plus a put a few drops on the outside of the trap, around the entrance hole.
Chick,
I've not used the paper mache traps but I saw a post where some one had used plywood as a bottom of the trap. They then turned the trap upside down and it became the roof. Connect an "L" bracket on the roof and with a hook of some sort, hang the trap from a your prefered location. You could put a screw or nail in the tree if there's not a branch to hang it from.
I personally use homemade 5 frame nucs as traps as well as carboard nucs. The carboard nucs work well as long as you have a level, stable platform the preferably under cover. I prefer the homemade nucs though. They work the best everywhere else and you can use them to overwinter nucs as well. When I place the traps I merely make sure they are bated with a frame of old comb, lgo and are in the shade +80% of the time. I also make sure to full the remainder of the nuc with undrawn frames to ensure they have a good place to build if I don't check it for a couple of weeks.
I've not used the paper mache traps but I saw a post where some one had used plywood as a bottom of the trap. They then turned the trap upside down and it became the roof. Connect an "L" bracket on the roof and with a hook of some sort, hang the trap from a your prefered location. You could put a screw or nail in the tree if there's not a branch to hang it from.
I personally use homemade 5 frame nucs as traps as well as carboard nucs. The carboard nucs work well as long as you have a level, stable platform the preferably under cover. I prefer the homemade nucs though. They work the best everywhere else and you can use them to overwinter nucs as well. When I place the traps I merely make sure they are bated with a frame of old comb, lgo and are in the shade +80% of the time. I also make sure to full the remainder of the nuc with undrawn frames to ensure they have a good place to build if I don't check it for a couple of weeks.
If there are 10 production colonies kept in one location, how many swarm traps could a person put out to catch potential swarms? In other words, would a certain number of swarm traps be put to 'cover' the potential swarms from 10 hives?
Would the swarm traps be put together in one spot or spread out equal distance 1/4 or so mile away from the apiary?
I'm planning to put out 15 swarm traps this year and wondering how to make the most of the equipment I've set aside for this test. I'm already on board with box volume, scents, and using old comb and empty frames.
I just need to understand swarm trap density now.
Would the swarm traps be put together in one spot or spread out equal distance 1/4 or so mile away from the apiary?
I'm planning to put out 15 swarm traps this year and wondering how to make the most of the equipment I've set aside for this test. I'm already on board with box volume, scents, and using old comb and empty frames.
I just need to understand swarm trap density now.
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4,487 Posts
Hey Doc,
That would be a hard question to answer, because most beekeepers try to manage their hives to prevent swarming.
The traps are more to catch the misfortune of others, & feral bees from the crowded bee trees. I think thats why spreading them around helps.
That would be a hard question to answer, because most beekeepers try to manage their hives to prevent swarming.
The traps are more to catch the misfortune of others, & feral bees from the crowded bee trees. I think thats why spreading them around helps.
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1,822 Posts
Hambone- I like your traps. Could you talk about how you make them?
Kingfisher
Kingfisher
I melted some old wax into the paper mache trap, added a little lemongrass oil and it catches a couple every year. I braced a piece of plywood 7' up a tree in my driveway. then attached the paper trap w/ lid on top, under the "plywood table"(keeps the rain out and gives me a place to attach it). That way I can ck it every time I drive by!!! Personally I wont "buy" another trap. there is to much out there that works just as good.
-beat up old deeps/supers
-wax covered cardboard produce boxes
-buckets
-plywood
-tin
I put other traps on my hunting tree stands w/ a strap about 6' up a tree. That way I drive up to it on my 4 wheeler, stand on the seat and grap the swarm if I'm lucky. Keep and eye on them often. If you see scouts flying into your traps be ready the next nice day you may get lucky!
Good luck trapping!
-beat up old deeps/supers
-wax covered cardboard produce boxes
-buckets
-plywood
-tin
I put other traps on my hunting tree stands w/ a strap about 6' up a tree. That way I drive up to it on my 4 wheeler, stand on the seat and grap the swarm if I'm lucky. Keep and eye on them often. If you see scouts flying into your traps be ready the next nice day you may get lucky!
Good luck trapping!
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