Does'nt Citral come from Lemongrass oil, or citrus oils? To distill it they use Gernaiol I believe, I also may be totally wrong.
So in that case, it seems to me straight lemongrass oil would be just as good with less work.
I put out just one bait hive this past year in my back yard with a few drops of lemongrass oil dobbed on the inside and was so surprised that a swarm found it and adopted it as their home. So...I am convinced that just the lemongrass oil is all I need. What were those other ingrediants...citrol and geronial... from that recipe? And...what might those other ingrediants do? I'm not sure I've heard of them before.
Yoyo, try your health food store or look on the net -- lemongrass essential oil.
My bottle came from my health food store $4.50 for 1/3 oz , company name Wyndmere Naturals, Inc. Can also try Now Foods on the net and see if they have it. Can also try e-Bay...
I am starting to think that the size of the swarm trap is just as important as the bait. I have about 25 traps out using everything from five frame nuc boxes to 8 frame double deeps and I have more than twice as many nucs. I get about 3 swarms in the double deeps for every one that occupies a nuc. I also use a combiniation of marinade of queen and lemongrass oil.
Doug, Thanks for that last post--great info on size of trap. I have heard that size does make a dif but wasn't sure what size. Apparently you must trap quiet a few swarms if you have 25 traps out. This is encouraging because I want to try my hand at trapping this year. I've also heard the marinade of queen and lemongrass oil works real well.
Some of them are nail on bottoms with a hole drilled for and entrance, some of them I just tie together with ratcheting straps. I always try to make the entrance really small because I read somewhere that the swarms prefer entrances less than 15 cm sq. I usually depends on where I am going to put them. I have one on the headache board of a friend's old dump truck that I keep secured real tight so he can take it off and put it back on if he needs to use the truck. Some of the ones on low pitch roofs I leave loose enough that I can inspect them if I need to. I tend to use a lot of deck screws to hold things together since they have come out with such great portable drills. Mostly what I do depends on what the landowner finds acceptable and what suits the situation. I have a couple on bee trees where I can take the swarms but can't touch the parent hive and I just mount them on shelf brackets a couple feet above the existing entrance with a little strip of burlap hanging down almost to the entrance to the main hive. If the bees decide to swarm, the burlap makes a great place to hang up and once they get there it is so easy to climb inside. When the box is occupied, I just take out the screws holding the box to the shelf brackets, remove the ratcheting strap that holds it against the tree trunk, and off we go.
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