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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the best treatment for varroa mid summer? I started with a package in the spring and didn't treat them. We now have varroa and DWV, even after a recent break in the brood cycle. Temps easily go into the 90s every day, eliminating a lot of our options. I also need something that will work in a TBH. I did a powder sugar treatment a few days ago.

I have Apistan getting delivered tomorrow (6/23, Monday), but I'm not sure I want to put it in the hive. I've been researching and researching, but haven't seen anything appropriate for high temps. I've read on an old post that even though MQS are recommended for up to 92 degrees, it's best not to use it in high temps. Also, not sure how I would add ventilation in the TBH. We have a closed bottom board. Lots of options recommend removing honey supers.... not possible with TBH. :-(
 

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A few summers ago I used Apiguard thymol gel. The temps shot up into the 105 degree mark for a few days after I had already placed it in the hives. The hives started aborting the brood and pulling it out of the hives. It said on the directions it was too hot to treat at I think 104 degrees but it was too late. I was shocked to see piles of dead brood. I had my hives on solid boards then and they were getting a full dose. After the second 2 week treatment 5 weeks from the start of the horrible real live nightmare I found all queens laying better than ever and dead mites all over the bottom boards. Since then I have tried other treatments but I love Apiguard best. I treat once a year every fall every hive but I make sure of the temperature window of opportunity. I used Apistan in the 90's late and HATE it. I went treatment free after Apistan at great loss.I am organic treatment now
 

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Please go to Randy Olivers website. Scientific beekeeper. I really do not know how to treat a top bar hive because in high temps I put half dose Apiguard Thymol Gel between brood chambers. It works.How do you do a Top Bar...Please tell.
 

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Could you temporarily brush the bees off just the honey and nectar combs, put those frames carefully in your freezer until treatment ends?
 

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Have you read about treating with Oxalic Acid? There is lots of info on BS. Perhaps vaporization is a good treatment method for you....
 

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Have you read about treating with Oxalic Acid? There is lots of info on BS. Perhaps vaporization is a good treatment method for you....
I am of the opinion that Oxalic Acid is a winter time medicine because it only works while the hive is broodless. It will not kill any of the mites reproducing on the brood in the cells.
 

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Moccasin... you are correct. However, 3-4 vapor treatments over the course of 3-4 weeks gets all the mites.....
 

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Maybe not all, but most - with low or no bee/brood mortality. Also, you COULD cage the queen for 24 days before treating. Not saying it's a good idea (although it might be) just that it's a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wonder if it would be ok to simply move the bars of honey behind the last follower board while treating??
 

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It will be fine as long as you don't plan that honey for human consumption - or depending on what treatment you use you probably should not use the frames to produce honey for human consumption ever again. If you have capped honey that you want to take off then you should just do so before treating.
 

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Just a guess, but could you space all of the frame bars 1/8" apart and treat with MAQS? Formic acid is heavier than air and will settle downword. You could put only one pad on and do an half treatment and add minor amounts of ventilation to make it safer to use above the suggested temps.

You might look around the Top Bar forum. Good luck! :)
 

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I currently have Langs hives. I decided to try a Kenyan Top Bar Hive. The queen in the package I added disappeared after a few weeks. I then decided the Top Bar Hive had too many restrictions or too few options when it got in trouble. So now I'm trading it for a Tanzanian Top Bar (Long Hive). Now if I loose a queen I can take some brood frames from my Langs , place them into the TBH and let them draw a new queen. Or if they need a boost of pollen and honey, add a frame from the Langs. This post has now given me another idea on how to treat for mites (I thought TBH's did get mites!). Take the bars from the TBH and put into a Langs body to treat as I would my other hives (remove the honey combs first). The more I learn about the Long hive, the better it sounds, but I think I'll still lean towards a Langstroth hive.
 
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