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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got (100) unassembled medium frames which I will be assembling in the next couple of weeks.

My intention is to use glue and staples.

I've got one reference to use 1/4" x 1-1/2, 18 gauge, crown staples. I've reviewed a handful of old threads and was curious if there were any current opinions on what size staple is most ideal?

Thanks!
 

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Langstroth
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I asked this question a little bit ago and most replied anywhere from 1" to 1 1/2" and I was thankful for everyone's input.
I used 1" because that's the max my stapler could manage and I couldn't justify purchasing another. This was one of my favorite videos for assembly and he is using a 1" staple as well. The second set of staples he does is the end bar into the top bar. I used wedge top frames so I made sure I stapled opposite of he wedge (the video does too) so I wouldn't have trouble removing the wedge later. When I put in my final staples on the top bar into the end bar, I put them slightly off center (closer to the wedge side) and didn't have a single nail blow out from the two colliding.

 

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Keep in mind glue is stronger than your staple. According to Project Farm, who tested wood glues in all kinds of conditions including wet, Titebond III and Elmers Max were the strongest and most waterproof.

But I still use 1 1/4" staples and 3/4" nails. One on each side, vertically, where the frame ends rest. And another into the bottom bar, crossing the staple. This is overkill but I've never had a break.
 

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"Keep in mind glue is stronger than your staple."
This is so very true, yet the majority of vids. demonstrate mere token applications of glue. They give away so much potential integrity of the joint by missing much of the critical surface where the glue would be the most effective. I can understand why, because thorough glueing without waste and sloppy squeeze out, does take extra time in assembly.

The vertical sides of the notches in the top bar and the corresponding mating surfaces in the endbar are the most effective, yet get the least attention. Count them; 12 surfaces! The endgrain of the side bar is the usual target of dabbed glue jobs, but is the least effective. Side grain glue surfaces in shear loading is where glue excels! The devil is in the details!

I put the glue in a small open container and use a small brush to hit each area rather than depending on luck for coverage.

There used to be good discussions on gluing on the old radio control model airplane forums when scratch building of balsa and silkspan covering planes were the vogue. Glue was all that held them together. Being a mediocre pilot at best, I got lots of building practice.:LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you read this thread ? The 2nd post answers your question
I did not read that thread. I will give it a look though.

I knocked out (100) frames over the weekend. The 1-1/2 worked well for the most point. I had maybe half a dozen where the staple decided to do it's own thing and shoot out sideways through the frame. I am assuming there is a knot or something in the wood to cause that.

As Crofter mentioned about brushing the glue on, this is something I've done with my boxes in the past, and I did the same with the frames.
 

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I use a 1 1/2 inch staple and I glue them. It's definitely worth it to do a cross nail or staple. A heavy honey frame will pull everything apart. No fun.
Yes! Ever watch people shaking all the bees off a frame! I dont know how many G's some people can induce but seem to be able to clear a frame 90% in one shot. I even saw one person slamming them down against the frame rests to get the sudden stop to add to the effect.:oops: It is more than the hanging weight of the frame contents. Frames with sidebars and top bar heavily propolized to the frame rests, especially in spring time can result in some brutal treatment. I like to push between ears of the sidebars to break loose such frames instead of hooking them up by the topbars, using the J Hook.
 
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