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I use 2" medium crown electro galvanized staples with glued finger joint. Over kill by far but I want to do it only once.
 

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A while back my son bought a Grex 16 ga. 7/16" crown stapler for assembling supers. He bought some 2" long staples for it. We tried using it the first time and found that the stapler obviously needs a larger air compressor to feed the stapler, as the stapler would only shoot the first or maybe second staple deep enough into the wood before you had to take a small break to let the compressor catch up.... not too efficient! How do I decide what size compressor I need to buy (without overkill) to get the proper air pressure continuously at the tool? Thanks.
 

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Hey. I use that portable porter cable pancake compressor with two outlets. It's primarily what we use on jobsites. It is going to turn on and every dozen shots or so. If you don't want that look at a much larger tank.
They all have gauges too. It's not always catching up, but turning on before it gets too low.
 

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I am using 6 gal or 4 gal double stacked hotdog tank style compressor and I can shoot 2" medium crown staples at 100 PSI setting flush to the box. Pancake style compressor may not be powerful enough.
 

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I am using 6 gal or 4 gal double stacked hotdog tank style compressor and I can shoot 2" medium crown staples at 100 PSI setting flush to the box. Pancake style compressor may not be powerful enough.
The porter cable pancake is, we run 2 framing guns off it on
Jobsites simultaneously.
 

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I forgot to say in my OP that the compressor I have right now is very small, only a 4 gal. tank and 1.5 hp., it works fine for my small staple gun that I use to put frames together, but insufficient volume for the large stapler that I mentioned.
 

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I have some boxes where someone used 1 1/4" x 1/4" crown staples. They do not stay together. Most of mine are 1 1/2" 1/4" crown staples and they do well. If my gun would take longer staples I would use them...
My understanding is that the nail/staple is only used to hold the wood together until the glue dries. If that's true, what difference the length of nail/staple?
 

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My understanding is that the nail/staple is only used to hold the wood together until the glue dries. If that's true, what difference the length of nail/staple?
I think that is telling you that maybe your understanding needs some fact checking:D Myself, I am a belt and suspenders guy; if one fails the other takes over!
 

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Gorilla wood glue and screws. Had my own construction company for 26 years before retiring. Nothing holds like a screw. Also, u are not beating something apart while trying to put it together, even though air guns are less worrisome than hand nailing.
 

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Two DeWalt cordless screwdrivers

one with a drill / countersink bit (let the grandkids do that part, they are 'helping Grandpa')

one to drive 2-1/2 " weatherproofed screws

a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit snugly inside to keep it square

takes a good bit longer but they don't loosen up
 

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Tightbond III glue in conjunction with a "Max" brand pneumatic nailer shooting 3" stainless steel ringshank nails. (I used to use a 3lb sledge hammer to drive similar nails into the boxes). I use the overflow glue to seal the end grain. I also use BetterBee boxes, which are made from 7/8" stock, rather than the standard 3/4" stock. My assembled boxes are rock solid.

I have a few boxes which are the standard 3/4" stock held together with just nails. These 3/4"/nails-only boxes are noticeable less rigid than my glued BetterBee boxes.

I don't paint or otherwise seal my boxes, hence I use the SS nails to avoid rust stains caused by regular nails. Purely an aesthetic consideration.





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Those betterbee 7/8" box material is very nice stuff
 

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I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? :)

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last.

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.
 

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I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? :)

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last.

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.
 

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Harbor Freight 18 gauge in assorted lengths. Under 20 dollars at HF.

I use it on most projects even the bee boxes before screwing them. Handy tool to have just keep your fingers out of the way since the 2" can bend and jump and come out the sides.
 

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I hurriedly ( is hurriedly a word? ) threw together some supers in early June, from scrap packing crate lumber, did not paint, just got them on the hives as fast as I could get them stapled together. butt jointte most with glue. 1/4 inch crown staples, 1&1/2 long.
Now the flow is over here, extraction/ bottling is done, getting these boxes off & repairing, painting etc. some of the boards are "cupping" apart at the edges. I am pulling them back close with a bar clamp & Adding a screw in each corner, filling the cracks & open end grains, knots with glue & painting/repainting . Same for some of my original finger joint boxes.
For future/new construction, I will consider a screw in each corner to start with.
Good Luck with your bees ...CE
 

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Harbor Freight 18 gauge in assorted lengths. Under 20 dollars at HF.

These are great until they break. I have a broken Senco that cost about $200 well over 30 years ago. When it broke, I went to the harbor freights. They work well. I have probably 6 broken ones. Latest addition is a Hitachi which looks like the HF models, but has been going strong for maybe 3 years. I recommend Hitachi.
 

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Do not forget that 20 or 25% soupcon from HF.

I used to use Sears Tools when I worked for Brown and Root back going to school when the had 100% free replacement and were great tools. Hard to beat Harbor Freight on sale unless your life depended on it. I figure most of the foreign made tools are never going to be the quality of quality made tools from 50 years ago.
 
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