Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got to move a queen to test whether it's the queen or the hive.
The hive she is in now had not been building up. No capped brood. Scattered drone cells, but but no worker brood.

I want to move her into a nuc. Give her new new comb and see if she does anything.
Can I take brood and bees from another hive with some bees from her original hive without problems?
Should I cage her for a day or so?
I've got another queen coming just to see if it's the queen or hive in the original hive. Pulling a few hairs out.

Thanks for advice.

I'm in Asheville NC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
I mix bees from resource hives all the time making up nucs, also adding brood and bees to different hives for stronger colonies. never ever had a problem. Only time I see bees fight is when a intruder tries to enter the hive.
Personally I wouldn't cage her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Sorry. I was picturing taking a frame of bees with a queen, and adding that to multiple frames of bees from another hive to make up a nuc. In that case, I’d probably cage her, may not be required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
There will be nearly equal amounts of bees from each colony.
I'm thinking the queen frame will be so happy to see capped brood from the other hive they won't fuss much at all. I've just never split this late before. Didn't know if different rules applied in July as opposed to April.

I really need to get this situation fixed. I think I have just enough time left.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
So...I thought I'd add a question here rather than spamming the forum with tons of other new 'splits' threads. There's already several.

When I see all these 'hive splits' threads, I don't understand if they typically ore MOSTLY move the existing queen into the smaller newer hive split, or leave her with the stronger existing hive that everything is being taken out of? And how would you decide what matters. (And it seems a lot of people just say, "I'm doing what's called a walk away split," and I haven't understood how they are deciding which way the queen goes clearly. (Maybe I missed it, or they assumed everyone all knows?)

Another thing too...that I don't get.

When people are saying, "Oh this brood pattern sucks, this queen must be trash", etc etc...I don't understand why that can attributed to the queen. She doesn't actually tell all the other bees what do to do right? Don't they sort of follow their programming? So is thinking that its the queen's fault only half true? (genes, but not direct orders.)
 

·
Registered
5 ,8 ,10 frame, and long Lang
Joined
·
2,004 Posts
So...I thought I'd add a question here rather than spamming the forum with tons of other new 'splits' threads. There's already several.

When I see all these 'hive splits' threads, I don't understand if they typically ore MOSTLY move the existing queen into the smaller newer hive split, or leave her with the stronger existing hive that everything is being taken out of? And how would you decide what matters. (And it seems a lot of people just say, "I'm doing what's called a walk away split," and I haven't understood how they are deciding which way the queen goes clearly. (Maybe I missed it, or they assumed everyone all knows?)

Another thing too...that I don't get.

When people are saying, "Oh this brood pattern sucks, this queen must be trash", etc etc...I don't understand why that can attributed to the queen. She doesn't actually tell all the other bees what do to do right? Don't they sort of follow their programming? So is thinking that its the queen's fault only half true? (genes, but not direct orders.)
So Hagane, where do the bees come from? if the bees control the pattern they come from the Queen, if the queen controls the pattern.... so hence the prescription of replace the queen. If you have some extra bees and brood , trying her out in a new hive with new bees is a good plan. as it is getting late, you need to get the new hive winter able shortly. Please post the results.
GG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
who else you gonna blame? To quote Mike Palmer

as far as the combine, put the 2 frames from other colonies in 2-24 hours before the frame with the queen. If she's a dog, they will probably kill her.
 

·
Super Moderator
Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
Joined
·
6,257 Posts
LL, how did things work out with moving the queen to a different nuc?

Hagane, splits are made for different reasons and that helps determine the type of split. Moving the queen is usually a swarm prevention technique but has other applications as well, like this one. A walkaway split is an easy way for newer beeks, and some older ones, to make increases with very little effort. You give a couple of frames of bees the resources to create a new queen and start a new hive, and they do, most of the time.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top