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If I use a 1/4" spline to join super corners will it last as well as finger joints? I'm building mediums if that makes any difference.
Splines vs finger joints
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That's what I figured. I'll just use a finger joint or maybe I'll get ambitious and dovetail them. Maybe do some of both and compare.
I would consider a spline joint batter than a butt joint or a rabbit. Depending on the material quality and the spline material used it could come very near a box joint for strength. You would not have the advantage of assembly that a box joint gives you. a properly cut box joint goes a long way toward aligning the sides plumb and square. If you are considering what I am picturing as a spline joint I would be concerned about tear out of the end grain with a 1/4 inch spline in a 3/4 inch piece of wood. that only leaves you 1/4 inch either side of the spline. That is getting pretty thin and may not put up with a lot of racking force when the box is in use.
Yup. This is a 3 year old nuc, built from a $1.69 dog-ear RW fenceboard. 2 biscuits for mediums at each corner, and 3 for deep.
I've heard there are "exterior" rated biscuits (used for mansion trim), but basic grade has worked fine.
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Why not use rabbeted joints?
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Ok, the next question I suppose is what size to cut fingers for medium supers? Do you want 1/4" fingers or 1" fingers?
I would say 1/4 inch fingers would be more of a decorative option. I tend to use 3/4 inch fingers in 3/4 inch material. This requires cutting more fingers and using more nails in assembly. 1 inch is a good choice that requires fewer fingers and fewer fasteners but is a bit more difficult on a saw that will only hold a 3/4 inch stack of dado blades.
One feature I like about the box joint is that you can pin it if you chose to. I use a long thin nail. pre drill and then pin the fingers with the nail. I like for it to go through at least three of the finders at every corner. It helps prevent corners from separating.
Quality of material has a lot to do with determining if it is worth the extra work to pin them. Soft loose grain wood will just tear out regardless of the pin if the pieces are not assembled correctly.
There are some thing you can research and learn about wood to improve the quality of homemade boxes. Mainly how and why wood expands and contracts. How to orient grain to prevent separation of the corners. what causes twisting and racking of lumber. How to avoid checking. even stabilization of the wood before using it.
Selecting your material and how you handle it after purchase is the beginning of producing a good box.
One feature I like about the box joint is that you can pin it if you chose to. I use a long thin nail. pre drill and then pin the fingers with the nail. I like for it to go through at least three of the finders at every corner. It helps prevent corners from separating.
Quality of material has a lot to do with determining if it is worth the extra work to pin them. Soft loose grain wood will just tear out regardless of the pin if the pieces are not assembled correctly.
There are some thing you can research and learn about wood to improve the quality of homemade boxes. Mainly how and why wood expands and contracts. How to orient grain to prevent separation of the corners. what causes twisting and racking of lumber. How to avoid checking. even stabilization of the wood before using it.
Selecting your material and how you handle it after purchase is the beginning of producing a good box.
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Yeah, and if the math works out right I believe 3/4" would leave the last finger at about 5/8" for a medium super. Perfect!
Thanks for all your input guys.
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