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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone:

I know that this beetle goes into a stage and it has to go underground to get a new cycle going, and then, bang, right back into the hive.

Now, I have quite a bit of metal roofing sheets, and was wondering if any of you have ever placed metal in front of the hives, to keep the beetles from going down into the ground. My thinking, if there is solid metal in front of the hives, he would be out of luck gettting into the ground.

If heat in summer becomes an issue, the tin could be covered with straw and that would probably help in a heat situation dealing with reflected heat.

Hope some one on here will chime in. We all need to make all out war on this unwanted freeloader guest.

Best,

Casper_zip
 

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I see beetles all over the yard, around the garden...I vote for chickens or guinea hens outside the hive, traps inside the hive
 

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I haven't seen any SHB yet:thumbsup: but I have wondered this: my hives are on stands bout 18 inches high, just inside the woods line. The area under and all around the hives is leafy debris forest floor. It is teeming with large ants, yellow jackets, wasp here and there, lots of predatory creatures. It would seem, and my hope is, that any HB larvae would quickly be gobbled up. The other defense, again I hope,,,is that I keep my entrances reduced to bout 8 inches. Some less. It would seem that a SHB would really have to run the gauntlet to get in or out.

My thoughts

Rick SoMd
 

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They have been known to crawl some distance to find the proper soil....so I am told.
Indeed...

There was a post a while back where they discussed how many several meters they will crawl. I remember someone trying the metal roofing hoping the young beetles would burn from the absorbed heat before they reached any soil. I'd recommend a search to find who this was and check with them for any success.

Later, John
 

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If they fall right outa they hive,,, and I assume they do,,,why not some type of box structure. Can the larvae climb over a raised edge? Might be practicle for a small time operation. The other thing I was thinking of is to cultivate your ant population. Put something that keeps the ants in front of your hive but the bees aren't interested in or can't get to. Just tossin out ideas

Rick SoMd
 

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Small entrances help, dense hives help. Try not to have places in the hive where beetles can get, and bees can't - like the crack in the top of those split frames, or the groove that the wire seats in on wooden bound queen excluders. Caulk those spots up with wax of let the bees propolize them shut and eventually they won't be a problem. But if you live in the south you are almost sure to have SHBs in your hives by now - they fly in from who knows how far.

I do all of that plus my screened bottom boards are full coverage oil traps - which I believe drowns every single larva that tries to exit - and I still see beetles in my hives - but not enough to be a problem. Not so far this year anyway.
 

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David LeFerney's advice is right on.

1) No place for the beetle to hide is the best deterrent. This let's the bees take care of the problem.

2) Beetle larvae can crawl a lot further than you think. Even across roasty hot pavement in July in Florida. They can make 10 feet easy and the pavement must be 130-140 degrees. Ask me how I know.......

3) I've found ground control is a joke. They can fly for miles. All you are doing by killing the larvae under your hive is killing the larvae that should never have been there in the first place. If the hive beetle larvae are killed and carried off by healthy bees, then they are long gone. Only when I hive collapses due to hive beetle are significant number of larvae reaching the soil. If the hive is dead, you don't need to worry too much about hive beetles, now do ya?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the info. I did not know these beetles were that tough. I do know some are in some of my hives. I'm trying my best to get my bees superstrong and let them take care of this problem. I am going to help them all I can, beetle traps, 2 kinds, and go from there.

Thanks again, this is a great place to learn, and I need a lot of that.

Best,

casper_zip
 

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I took a dead out hive and placed it (on a stand) over an ant colony. SHB overran it and then the larva got to be ant food.

I knew fire ants had a purpose.
 

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Snarky, did you ever have problems with the fire ants trying to get at the honey in the hive or sugar water when feeding?
 

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The beetle has to go back to the ground to pupate. They do not like high pH ground. Mix lime and water and saturate the ground around your hives. theory is to make them go somewhere else. This is a control method, and does not eliminate them. Use traps in your hive.
 

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Don't forget that the bees will carry them off and away from the hives as well. I have seen mine carry dead bees a good ways off. I use no traps, just keep the hives in full sun and keep them very strong, even if I have to use a follower board....
 

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Im doing the metal roofing thing to try and break the cycle.

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242288

the guys here are right tho, they fly in from all over the place, but i think the larvae on the metal slows them down a bit so birds/ants can get them.

I have seen the larvae survive a few hours in a fire also - a 44 gallon drum I use as a incinerator - couldnt believe how tough they are!!
 

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I'm testing a translucent lexan top on one of my hives; read an article by a guy in FL who said it really helped with control. I'm doing a trapout on a tree now, and saw some SHB in the tree....even the wild bees can't get a break!
 
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