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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have small hive beetles here in upstate New York. Some threads that I have read dismiss small hive beetles as a nuisance that a healthy hive can handle. Maybe so but I wish beekeepers and Betterbee and the like took more efforts to control them When making a split or adding new boxes or in early Spring the larvae from small hive beetles can putrify and destroy a hive. if you have ever seen the larvae in great numbers on the bottom board you would know how disgusting they are.
OK what do I have to offer you say. Rather than just trapping adults which isn"t a bad idea or using pesticide I have really good long term solution. I have been placing trays under the hive entrances on the ground so that when the larvae exit the hive to pupate in the ground they end up in my pan. They started producing larvae in April here since they seem to make it through the winter. Over time there shouldn't be any more beetles except new visitors from unknown sources nearby. Hope this idea catches on.
 

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OK what do I have to offer you say. Rather than just trapping adults which isn"t a bad idea or using pesticide I have really good long term solution. I have been placing trays under the hive entrances on the ground so that when the larvae exit the hive to pupate in the ground they end up in my pan. They started producing larvae in April here since they seem to make it through the winter. Over time there shouldn't be any more beetles except new visitors from unknown sources nearby. Hope this idea catches on.
If larvae are exiting your hive to pupate, it's usually too late and your hive is already a mess inside .
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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If larvae are exiting your hive to pupate, it's usually too late and your hive is already a mess inside .
+1:thumbsup:
 

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Very good idea battenkill. Ill try this in addition to my current plan in action. In early spring, before i start seeing the hive beetles, i put 2 beetle traps in 2nd and third boxes of all my hives. I rarely put olinnlowest box, unless its a single from a split. Works well for me, and didnt have an issue at all last year. Fingers crossed for this year. Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I did my Spring inspections I also did the usual Spring cleaning, I usually swap the wintered bottom boards with spares that are clean and dry. One hive did have mess on the bottom with beetle larvae. The trays I use are have 4' high walls and have noticed a quite a few larvae exiting even after routine cleanup. My point is that the remaining larvae will exit to become a new pest and they are dying in my trays. I think this is a good alternative to treating the ground with pesticide. like mites we are going to get these problems and its worse if suppliers and other beekeepers don't do their part.
 

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When I did my Spring inspections I also did the usual Spring cleaning, I usually swap the wintered bottom boards with spares that are clean and dry. One hive did have mess on the bottom with beetle larvae. The trays I use are have 4' high walls and have noticed a quite a few larvae exiting even after routine cleanup. My point is that the remaining larvae will exit to become a new pest and they are dying in my trays. I think this is a good alternative to treating the ground with pesticide. like mites we are going to get these problems and its worse if suppliers and other beekeepers don't do their part.
So let me get this straight. The larvae exits the hive to become a adult? I run all screened bottom boards with a tray year round with crisco on it to catch mites and the larvae. Have one hive with SHB and only see a couple every time i inspect,adults that is in the hive and don't notice any damage to comb. Do notice larvae on tray quite a bit but that seems to be it. Seems to bee doing a good job. I think.
 

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65 colonies +/- mostly Langstroth mediums, a few deeps for nuc production
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Good idea to understand the life cycle of the pests. If you are seeing SHB larvae on your inserts, they are in your hives. They tunnel through the brood and pollen eating them as a protein source.you won't see them in small numbers. As the ground warms up the pupation time goes down, and the adults return to the hive and then you see a population explosion.
 

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I have noticed that the population has been glob by up in the cambridge area in the 3 yrs i have been doing this. My plan is to do beetle traps this year..
 

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SHB Will ruin your honey and cause it to ferment and from what I understand it has an awful foul smell to it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hope the pan idea catches on as this interrupts the life cycle. One more observation. The plastic frames as currently manufactured have ideal holes and slots around the edges for small hive beetles to hide and wax moths to lay eggs. I have discontinued using them except for honey supers. These slots are a bad idea and I would recommend beekeepers use wooden frames until this problem has been corrected by the manufacturers. Betterbee is aware of this and I hope other suppliers bring this up.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Ceracell makes plastic frames that do not have places for SHB to hide. Their design is patented. The best way to control SHB without the use of pesticides is to use nematodes. You can even grow your own.
 

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Ceracell makes plastic frames that do not have places for SHB to hide. Their design is patented. The best way to control SHB without the use of pesticides is to use nematodes. You can even grow your own.
How so you grow your own? I need to research this. We have bees at home, no hive beetles, bees 1/2 mile from here, fighting hive beetles, seeing some every time we go into the hive, bees about 20 minutes from here no hive beetles.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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The process involves getting wax moth larvae and live nematodes. You infect the larvae and then make a solution once they reach a certain point. I saw a presentation by Izzy Hill at one of our bee club meetings. I downloaded her powerpoint file but cant find it to share.
 
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