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This may be a dumb idea but why not just raise them higher?
The higher up you put the base, the higher you have to lift the boxes. At 6'2" I can put them up a little higher (for now) but some shorter folks might have a harder time?
 

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Sometimes I forget that not everyone lives out in the boondocks. I've become spoiled here where machine guns and suppressors are legal, and constitutional carry is the law of the land.
LOL, sometimes I miss living in Maine. I can remember buying one of my .45ACP's up near Thomaston. You needed 3 things, promise your not a felon, cash and a pulse. Can't do that here in the Peoples Republic.
But then I remember -30F. I already got the guns.
 

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Lead is best. I have done it two ways. 210 trap with food in the back of a box. Or a live trap. Live trap walk up to it with a blanket in front of you till you can cover it.
 

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The higher up you put the base, the higher you have to lift the boxes. At 6'2" I can put them up a little higher (for now) but some shorter folks might have a harder time?
I am about 5’7” and mine are about 18” off the ground.
 

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I read that you can sprinkle lye in front of the hives to deter skunks. I think it's on Randy Oliver's site. I did it and skunks haven't been back.
 

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Skunks once used to feeding on your bees will come back. If the hive is not high enough they will simply visit, scratch on the entrance until the bees come out and then lap them up. In CA. skunks were a huge problem and could weaken hives quickly.
 

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Raise the hives on tall stands and place carpet tack strips on the landing board area. Skunks don't like reaching up and getting stabbed
 

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There have been a few threads on skunks and I now have an issue with them. I installed about 11 nucs yesterday and left the empty nucs boxes in front of each hive so the few remaining bees could enter the hive. The boxes were an attraction to the skunks overnight, and they also pulled out my entrance reducers. I would appreciate any practical thoughts on stopping the skunks.
I made tack boards using carpet tack strips from Home Depot/Lowes. Place on ground in front of each hive so the skunk can't stand there to tease the bees out. Worked great for me.
 

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I learned early on that chicken wire layed flat on the ground in front of the hive entrance deters skunks. They don't like it underfoot.
 

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I read that you can sprinkle lye in front of the hives to deter skunks. I think it's on Randy Oliver's site. I did it and skunks haven't been back.
Had always been told that you could pour out a little kyro syrup and sprinkle lye around it, they would get the karo syrup and lye stuck to their feet and lick it off, the lye would be in their belly and kill them. Of course this was when you could still buy red devil lye.
But this was for groundhogs.
 

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There have been a few threads on skunks and I now have an issue with them. I installed about 11 nucs yesterday and left the empty nucs boxes in front of each hive so the few remaining bees could enter the hive. The boxes were an attraction to the skunks overnight, and they also pulled out my entrance reducers. I would appreciate any practical thoughts on stopping the skunks.
Just set the hive boxes on top of masonry blocks stacked 2 high and the skunks can't reach them.
 

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I had skunk problems a couple of years ago. I had carpet strips etc. but they seemed to work around until they got to the entrance... Live / Death traps were the only way I could get rid of them. Live trap with a 22 from a minimum of 30+ feet.. I trapped 6 skunk in 7 days before I didn't catch any more. Word of advice, set the trap with sardines or cat food bait 20 feet from the hive.. That area stunk all summer long, especially when it gets hot.
 

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When I first got into beekeeping, I took a course and the instructor (or was great and is still a friend) told us that the stands should elevate the hive landing board a least a foot off the ground. This was because while guard bees can't get through the skunk's fur, on a raise hive, the have to expose that soft white underbelly where the guard bees can sting them. I also heard once from another beekeeper to put down roofing asphalt shingles in front as the skunk's foot pads are every sensitive. The third option is a foot wide nail strip (nails up) complete across the ground infront of the hives. I kinda like mine better and a two hive stand can be done with (4) 2x4x8's and (1) 1x6 x12. We do have skunks around but they haven't hit any on my hives. I'm an engineer and this hive stand screwed together will hold 1000 lbs. -definite over design but they look good in the Momma's View attachment 63261 garden.
I was told much the same for skunks and raccoons (we have more racoons than skuks) My hive sit on stands 18 inches up, making them stretch to get access. The entire yard is in an electric bear fence, but that does not deter small animals. So far it has worked.
 

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There have been a few threads on skunks and I now have an issue with them. I installed about 11 nucs yesterday and left the empty nucs boxes in front of each hive so the few remaining bees could enter the hive. The boxes were an attraction to the skunks overnight, and they also pulled out my entrance reducers. I would appreciate any practical thoughts on stopping the skunks.
Okay!
Sold on ebay is a sprinkler unit called (Scarecrow.) You just stab it into the ground, and hook up your garden hose.
It is an adjustable motion-activated swing arm sprinkler that now costs around $21.oo.
People use them to keep kids, and cats out of their yard. It also works on prowlers.

Good Luck!
Songshadow
 

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Note to self; When applying lead poisoning take note of wind direction. Nothing like shooting a skunk and feeling a mist drifting onto your face. A dog works, but you might not be the dogs best friend for a while. Putting a trapped skunk in the trunk-even with a blanket or tarp over it, might work but I don't think I would try this. A pickup truck is better.

I usually just think of the bird eggs I am saving and use a .22............after checking the wind of course. But then I live out in the sticks.
 
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