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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am starting to gather my beekeeping supplies and I went to the bee supply store in my area and purchased a screened bottom board, a hive boady and an entrance reducer...among other things.

My question is this. The two side rails and rear rail on the screened bottom board allows for a 1/2 gap when you place the hive body on it but my entrance reducer is 3/4 x 3/4. Is this a design flaw on the screened bottom board or am I just a confused newbie? I wanted to use an entrance reducer due to the fact that I am going to be cutting comb from a captured swarm and placing it in the hive and I can't at this point see how strong the colony is. I have a 3/4 x 3/4 pc of wood that I can make new rails for the bottom board but I think I'm missing something here.

I know on some bottom boards they are reversible but with this one it's not.

Carla
 

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Just use a piece of 1/2 inch wood of any kind to fill in part of the gap--you can make the reduced opening on one side instead of the center of the bottom board, just slide the spacer to one side. Hope this helps!
 

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I think the problem is that you want to put the reducer under the wall of the hive body. It doesn't go there. The reducer can be 2 X 2 as long as the cutout is 3/8 in. You just lay the reducer on the porch up against the hive body, not under the hive body. All my reducers are 3/4 X 3/4.
 

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>I think the problem is that you want to put the reducer under the wall of the hive body. It doesn't go there.

Yes it does go there on every hive that I have


But iddee is correct, IF you have room, lay the reducer on bottom board and push it against the hive body. I like the idea of a 2x2 making a "tunnel" too
 

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>>>>Yes it does go there on every hive that I have <<<<

Then my guess is you made your own bottom boards and reducers. The bottom boards I buy are reversible and I always use the 3/8 in. side, never the 3/4 in. side. All my reducers are 3/4X3/4. Therefore the reducer does not go under the hive body. If yours do, I also would guess that they propolize it together. I wouldn't want it that way. Too hard to remove, and I'm lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay....I got it. I was thinking that the reducer needed to fit under the hive body between the hive body and bottom board. I guess for when I transport them, I'll just have to make sure that the reducer is secure.

Thanks for your help!

Carla
 

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iddee is right again . . . kinda


Bee books show using a reducer w/ the 3/4" (actual its 7/8" if to spec) opening of BB.

Using a reducer on the 3/8" side of BB must be something they do only in the "Middle of N.C."


Yep, it take some strong prying to remove a propolized reducer. Dont the stick the 2x2 to the hive body? or does the rain keep it washed out?
 

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Mine are all 3/4 X 3/4. Not much space to propolize.

Anyway that works will do. An exact science, beekeeping is not. If you are having fun, you're doind it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And after all my posts....I STILL show as "unregisterd" :(

Weird!
 

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> I guess for when I transport them, I'll just have to make sure that the reducer is secure.

When you transport them, you'll want to use screen to close up the entrance. They will need the ventilation during the trip.
-j
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh you're right. Especially with the heat we've had here.

Carla
 

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If you use a top entrance then you must slide the board or entrance reducer into the slot, we disassembled (ripped up) a redwood sided jacuzzi and the side boards were three eighths inch lumber--we have a lot of reducers and plugs for the hives now! ;)
 
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