[Lorraine123]

I purchased a used 9 frame motorized SAF extractor. The unit turns on but for some reason is not spinning. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this unit? it is an older unit that does not have digital display from late 1990s. OR can anyone provide any trouble shooting ideas?

Thank you
Lorraine

 

[gone2seed]

The first thing I would check is the capacitor on the motor.You are getting enough power to attempt a start but not enough power to start the spin.

 

[Lorraine123]

The first thing I would check is the capacitor on the motor.You are getting enough power to attempt a start but not enough power to start the spin.

Where is the capacitor? I included pictures

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

Welcome to Beesource!

Make sure that the extractor reel (that holds the frames) can spin freely without the motor running. You may need to remove the motor to determine this.

If the motor hums, my guess is that there is a mechanical issue, rather than a wiring issue. Contaminated grease in the extractor drum bottom bearing is a possibility. Make sure the motor is mounted correctly (not mis-aligned with respect to the reel.)


Starting capacitors are typically found on AC 'fixed speed' motors (like on a tablesaw, perhaps). My guess is what is in that extractor is a DC motor (with the electronics in photo #2 converting the AC input power to DC to facilitate variable speed.)

 

[Lorraine123]

Hi
Extractor reel spins freely without the motor running. We have power in the motor. I am thinking more towards the safety switch being bad, there is a reset button on the side that activates the safety switch and it works intermittingly

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

I would expect that a safety switch (cover open, etc) would cut power to the motor entirely and there would be no indication that the motor was attempting to start.

I would also expect that there is a reduction gear assembly attached to the actual motor, involved for reducing the motor speed. There may be problems with that gear assembly. That could possibly be related to old grease, but there could be a bigger mechanical problem also.

 

[Lorraine123]

I would expect that a safety switch (cover open, etc) would cut power to the motor entirely and there would be no indication that the motor was attempting to start.

I would also expect that there is a reduction gear assembly attached to the actual motor, involved for reducing the motor speed. There may be problems with that gear assembly. That could possibly be related to old grease, but there could be a bigger mechanical problem also.

I does not seem like the motor (I am assuming it is the green thing on top) is doing anything. The control panel lights up and all the switches seem to be working and when I pull the fuse it shuts everything off which is correct.

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

> We have power in the motor.

This phrase led me to believe that the actual motor was making some attempt to turn. But your description on post #7 suggests that there is power to the control system, but perhaps the motor never actually tries to turn.

In that case, I agree that the safety switch is a good place to start. Even without a wiring diagram, you can likely troubleshoot/bypass that switch. If it only has two wires, just connect them together temporarily and try again.

If there are 3 wires, mark everything (I take photos too) then disconnect the switch wires. Use an ohmmeter to figure out the Normally Closed-Normally Open-Common wires/terminals (or see if they are marked). Then try temporarily wiring the NC wire to the Common. If the motor still doesn't start, break that connection and then try NO to the Common. If neither work, then the problem may not be the switch.


(Make any temporary wiring changes with the extractor unplugged, and stay clear when applying power. Those are common sense points, but if I don't mention them, someone else may point out the hazards I ignored. )

.

 

[gone2seed]

Where is the capacitor? I included pictures

I guess I need to come into the 21st century.I do not see a capacitor in your pictures.It generally sits atop motors in an upside down horseshoe shaped housing.Your motor is an entirely different kettle of fish.
@ Rader...What is it that you see that makes you think this is a DC motor.This for my future info and not because I doubt your assessment.
@ Lorraine again.The two pictures show capacitors on two of my motors.These supply extra power at startup to start things spinning.

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

Following a thread started by BeeCurious, I salvaged discarded treadmills to gather motors with plans to build an extractor. Treadmill motors vary, but one I like has an electronic speed control, circuit board & transformer that resembles the photos above. Along with the variable speed, while the treadmill didn't go in reverse, as the motor is a DC motor it is easily capable of reverse by reversing the two wires (or adding a switch to do so).

Another treadmill I salvaged has a single-speed AC motor and a mechanical variable speed (diameter) pulley to adjust the speed. A simple design, but for the treadmill user it means they have to stop the treadmill and go to where the motor is mounted to adjust the speed.

Capacitor start AC motors are more difficult/expensive to make variable speed, AFAIK. The modern way to have variable speed with an efficient AC motor is to use an inverter to provide variable frequency AC to the motor, but for an older extractor it seems unlikely that approach was chosen.

So the circuit board and electronic variable speed in the photos are clues (from my perspective) that the extractor motor is likely DC.

 

[ABruce]

I suggest you email the manufacturer giving them as many id numbers as you can find and ask them if they have a manual or what brand of speed control it is. It is probable its a controller that was common in its day and a local electric motor shop may be able to identify it and either have a manual or first hand experience, I did a quick Google search to see if it was on the manufacturers website they offer a contact email at [email protected].

 

[Lorraine123]

I have already talked to saf in Italy and they will not provide they want me to send them the controller, no thanks and not right they should provide this information on their website