You could try but I think they would ignore it. J
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Yes the supposed benefits of the dry sugar being able to absorb any meaningful amount of hive moisture is often printed; In reality it takes very little water to turn sugar into gloop. Considering that each pound of honey consumed by the bees produces close to 12 oz. of water the absorbancy of dry sugar is negligible. In fact the metabolizing of the sugar produces its own excess water similarly to that of honey.
Another beekeeping myth! Sugar can certainly serve a purpose in augmenting scarce food stores but something else will have to take care of excess moisture.
Too bad Richard Cryberg is no longer with us.
Another beekeeping myth! Sugar can certainly serve a purpose in augmenting scarce food stores but something else will have to take care of excess moisture.
Too bad Richard Cryberg is no longer with us.
You can speak with him through Bee-l. And I use sugar shims (made with slightly moistened sugar pressed in and dried) over the winter for moisture and never had gloopy sugar; in fact the hives did very well over winter here using those (there was an entrance in them, too) This was before I insulated the top cover but did insulate the outside. Maybe it was the upper and lower entrances that helped vent excess moisture? My experience.Yes the supposed benefits of the dry sugar being able to absorb any meaningful amount of hive moisture is often printed; In reality it takes very little water to turn sugar into gloop. Considering that each pound of honey consumed by the bees produces close to 12 oz. of water the absorbancy of dry sugar is negligible. In fact the metabolizing of the sugar produces its own excess water similarly to that of honey.
Another beekeeping myth! Sugar can certainly serve a purpose in augmenting scarce food stores but something else will have to take care of excess moisture.
Too bad Richard Cryberg is no longer with us.
Exactly. That is why my insulated inner cover (I am in mid-MD) is made up of two layers glued together. The top layer is 1" solid foam insulation. The layer beneath that is Homasote sound board which is a great moisture absorber. The Homasote faces down and is placed right above the sugar block feeding shim. Stains on the Homasote are an indication that it is doing its absorbing job whether or not there are a few sugar bricks in place. My only concern used to be that I remove TOO much moisture during winter. Not all winter moisture is bad. Bees need water in the winter just as they do at other times. I want them to have moisture in the winter such as might form on the inside walls of on the outermost frames of capped honey. I just do not want so much moisture that it drips down from the top.Yes the supposed benefits of the dry sugar being able to absorb any meaningful amount of hive moisture is often printed; In reality it takes very little water to turn sugar into gloop. Considering that each pound of honey consumed by the bees produces close to 12 oz. of water the absorbancy of dry sugar is negligible. In fact the metabolizing of the sugar produces its own excess water similarly to that of honey.
Another beekeeping myth! Sugar can certainly serve a purpose in augmenting scarce food stores but something else will have to take care of excess moisture.
Too bad Richard Cryberg is no longer with us.
I agree that keeping the ceiling surface warm (insulation) is the best prevention of condensation dripping on bees. Personally I want the ceiling to be somewhat porous so it can conduct moisture out (not absorb, or hold moisture.) I dont think homosote or tentest as we used to call it in Canada excels at either insulating or transpiration. Cloth or screen with 4 or more inches of planer shavings insulation is my preferance but my winter is much harder than davemal's. I dont think the homosote is bad; just that it really is not doing what it is thought to do. Quibbling Put a slab of 2" or more foamboard above it and you would be golden.
I am leaning toward the need for some free water availability; for that reason I put no insulation on the upper front of the hive surrounding the area of a very small emergency upper exit. The hive is leaned forward and condensation that occurs here is available to the bees or free to run down the inside front wall to the main bottom entrance.
Maybe this provision for localized condensation for the bees is "monkey motion"! Robert H is very successful with no upper entrance or condensation spot.
Put a slab of 2" or more foamboard above it and you would be golden.I am leaning toward the need for some free water availability; for that reason I put no insulation on the upper front of the hive surrounding the area of a very small emergency upper exit. The hive is leaned forward and condensation that occurs here is available to the bees or free to run down the inside front wall to the main bottom entrance.
Maybe this provision for localized condensation for the bees is "monkey motion"! Robert H is very successful with no upper entrance or condensation spot.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
