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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Glasses Sky Liquid Drinkware Water


I received this flanged aluminum feeder lid for a regular mouth jar in a batch of equipment. I mostly feed inside an upper box to reduce robbing but for the nucs it's nice to have the jar on top so I can monitor the level of syrup without disturbing them. I prefer this lid to the regular lids as it sits a little higher in the cut-out in the lid so it's not on the frames and it keeps bees from trying to get in through the top. The lids listed for sale at the bigger suppliers seem to all be a regular lid with holes, no flange.

Does anyone still make these or know more about where this type of lid came from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That looks like a typical Mason jar. If you just want a 1-piece lid, Walmart sells a plastic version:
[URL Mainstays-Pack-of-8-BPA-Free-Plastic--Canning-Mason-Jar-Lids- [/URL]

My local WM has both regular and wide-mouth, usually.
Thank you - This looks more like an older galvanized metal lid that has a 1/4" flange instead of the rolled edge on a regular lid. The plastic lids are fine but don't hold the jar up near the top of the cut out like this flanged one.
 

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Sounds like the holes in your cover are too big.
Staple some #8 screen on the inside of your cover and use regular mason jar lids.
The lid in the picture is an oddball.Never seen anything like that in 40 yrs of bee catalogs.
 

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Jack has it right.
That lid pictured is probably aluminum, I think they came with some plastic entrance feeder that used to be made.
I have at least one that I brought home from somewhere.

The ungrateful witches stung me last year when I changed the jar, so all my feeder boards now have screen over the holes
 

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8 Frame mediums throughout with 2 under excluder
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I use standard canning rings and seals for my lids. I cut my holes in the migratory style covers using an 2 3/4" hole saw drill bit, with a 2/4 block under the lid to drill into. I drill the hole from the top of the lid down, and let the bit wobble ever so slightly as it drills. Fits the standar jar lids nice and tight and holds them above the top bars easily. The jar lids slip down so they are flush with the bottom surface of the migratory cover.

I leave them uncovered so that I can see the syrup levels and over winter I leave the jars in the holes. Well I did, now I swap out to inner covers/telescoping covers for over winter and spring.
 

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Drilling from the top down and letting the bit wobble ever so slightly is important. 2 3/4" holes are about 1/32" too tight for a jar lid to fit into, so top down and wobble is needed and they do fit nice and tight.
 

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I cover the jar so it does not get cold. Let the hive warm it.
 
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