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>How about letting the bees do the job and eventually helping them a bit by crowding and feeding?

The only issue is that they may not swarm on command. If you make them crowded (compress the hive by removing all unused boxes and possibly some of the boxes they are using and give those to another hive) AND queenless (catch the queen and put her in a nuc with a frame of brood and a frame of honey) then they will build queen cells "on command" and you're not going in every few days to see if you managed to convince them to swarm...
 

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I think this is the easiest method for a small operation that will definitely produce good queens. Despite this, yesterday I used the cell starter method. The main flow has just started and I want to take advantage of that. No time to wait.
 

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Why don't you try the cloake board method using a four or five frame double hive body. Works well and not much to it, or you can force hives or splits to make a new queen. You may also start a cell builder finisher out of a five frame hive body or double nuc as you may call it. That too will work, really not rocket science just good timing is the key.
 

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Why don't you try the cloake board method using a four or five frame double hive body. Works well and not much to it, or you can force hives or splits to make a new queen. You may also start a cell builder finisher out of a five frame hive body or double nuc as you may call it. That too will work, really not rocket science just good timing is the key.
Off topic:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?312248-Open-starter-vs-closed

Sorry for posting here but I got no answer.
 

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I think you answered your own question correctly in the edit, but I think you will know from their brood pattern w/o waiting for spring. I don't know your situation but if your worried about it just start another batch closed this time.
 

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My queen and honey flow season in Alabama is very similar to yours in NC. I have not raised my own queens yet but have taken 1 class and attended one meeting at our annual state meeting. I am now reading Larry Conner's book and Michael Bush's book and trying to gain confidence as to which approach is best. I am very concerned with SHB infestation on my young colonies. How do you manage that in your area? SHB killed all my increase splits last year as I attempted to let them make their own queens.
 

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Rosebee,
I had some small hive beetle problems in my split for increase into nucs. I will not use a pollen/protein patty again. It just gave the SHB a place to lay. I will feed sugar water instead of using a fully drawn comb of honey unless I add enough bees to cover and protect it.
I am also building nuc boxes for my half frames that I will use in my queen mating boxes. I intend to draw them on a nuc and when I am done raising my queens, I can just allow the bees to use them to overwinter on the combs.
 

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acceptance problem. using Joseph Clemens method with JZB queen cells. lots of nurse bees lots of food, no queen or cells. They build wax comb all over the cell frame, and no signs of the larva. I placed emerging brood in every week that contains some larva . Can any one help
 

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Sounds like you have a rogue queen still in there and stopping the cells.
take time and shake all the bees through a shaker box or excluder or remove all brood and brood frames and place a drawn comb in and come back in 2-3 days and check for eggs. You see single eggs in any cells shes there somewhere.
 

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Sounds like you have a rogue queen still in there and stopping the cells.
take time and shake all the bees through a shaker box or excluder or remove all brood and brood frames and place a drawn comb in and come back in 2-3 days and check for eggs. You see single eggs in any cells shes there somewhere.
Thanks, ill bee lookin for that queen, I could use her at this point. Putting some bare comb in might be a good way to locate her as well.
 

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When is the best time to rear a Queen?, I've had some queen cells in my hive and thought , why not raise one yourself. Is it too late to start.?
 

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The best time in my area is June and July because swarm season is when bees naturally want to make queens. It can be done later, but if you intend the new queen to head a new colony there is less time for that colony to grow before winter - it can be done but requires more resources in the form of drawn comb, bees at start up, and feeding.
 

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If I May,

Last year my timing to graft was totally off because of Knee surgery. After a dismal failure (no I don't want to talk about it) I purchased some cells from Stan Moulton , The Honey Company, Provo, Utah. I was searching the You Tube videos on the subject of queen rearing and stumbled onto the UoG Honeybee research Center Video on "Grafting." They were using a 20X microscope to assist placing the young larva into the cell. I use a magnifier but I may have been missing the intricate skill of placement. I inquired about a source for a 20X microscope with the arm. The one they use costs in excess of $400.00 but he gave me a referral for one that is about $200.00.

I thought this might be another "piece of the puzzle" to raise better queens. Thanx for tolerating me, LP
 

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Discussion Starter #139
If I May,

Last year my timing to graft was totally off because of Knee surgery. After a dismal failure (no I don't want to talk about it) I purchased some cells from Stan Moulton , The Honey Company, Provo, Utah. I was searching the You Tube videos on the subject of queen rearing and stumbled onto the UoG Honeybee research Center Video on "Grafting." They were using a 20X microscope to assist placing the young larva into the cell. I use a magnifier but I may have been missing the intricate skill of placement. I inquired about a source for a 20X microscope with the arm. The one they use costs in excess of $400.00 but he gave me a referral for one that is about $200.00.

I thought this might be another "piece of the puzzle" to raise better queens. Thanx for tolerating me, LP
I bought a Jewelers headband magnifier from Harbor Freight for $5 that works way better than I ever would have thought..

http://www.harborfreight.com/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html
 
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