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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have made 3 swarm traps out of older 10 frame deeps do you need to just add 4 frames of old comb or more along with lemon grass oil. Also have five frame deep Nucs that can be used I do have frames with pollen would it hurt to add a frame or two mix in with old comb?

Can you set up the deep fill it with 10 frames of older comb with LGO and have the same results? Looking foward to spring and trying some ideas out from all the winter reading that has been done. Other ideas from this form would be great on how you trap bees.
Thanks
 

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Anything is better than nothing. When in doubt, hang it up and wait for the bees. A 10 frame deep is a great size for a swarm trap. a 5-frame deep nuc is a little small, but I still put out a dozen or so of them every year. The scout bees (from what I've read) are looking for SPACE. So, I don;t give them a box full of comb. I give them one old black comb, 9 foundationless frames, and a healthy smear of LGO. I figure this gives them a spot to start laying without having to wait on someone to draw wax, and gives them the space they need to feel happy. A cast swarm draws comb VERY fast. Last year it took me 3 days to get to a swarm box after they mvoed in and it was shocking to see that they had almost 4 frames drawn out. I just kept on feeding them and letting them make wax.

Pollen probably wouldn;t do much to draw them to your bait hive, and might attract some unwanted attention from undesireable critters.
 

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I use all configurations of swarm traps. When using 10 frame traps, I add only 1 or 2 frames of old dark brood comb and fill the rest of the box with frames of foundation or foundationless frames. Add a couple drops of LGO.

I would caution putting traps out with less frames than the box was designed to hold. A lot cleaner if you catch a swarm with the proper frames. I also would only use empty comb. I don't use comb with pollen or honey for reasons of robbing and unwanted guests.
 

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I keep hearing of folks that see, and catch, swarms.

Last year was my first year with bees. I set out 10 frame boxes with older comb that I had begged off others, used LGO and...never even saw a swarm!!

I have lived in the same area for literally years and have never set eyes on a swarm. Are they likely around and I simply am not seeing them or areas truly devoid of bees seeking a new home?

I live adjacent to a major river, between 4 golf courses that all have lots of mature trees and vegetation and am about a mile away from a large forested area. I would have thought there would some bees living in the area. I saw bees before I had hives...just no clumps of bees:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To all thanks and they are ready to go when a if it ever gets warm again two frames old dark comb in middle four new frames on either sides of old comb the trap has a fixed bottom the top is 1/4 inch over hang made of wood held in place by wire.

Do you vent you traps? Some pictures that are out there have holes along the top with # 8 screen some do not have them just wondering.
 

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I have lived in the same area for literally years and have never set eyes on a swarm. Are they likely around and I simply am not seeing them or areas truly devoid of bees seeking a new home?
I have the same experience. I think we are not seeing them because I know there are plenty of bees and swarms around me. For the average working person your not going to see them because they swarm between 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM. I worked in a building with no windows so the chances are nil to see a swarm.
 

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I have some frames that got a little wax moth and hive beetle damage. Can these still be used for swarm traps or will it deter scouts from selecting the hive?
 

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I use to have trouble with wax moth destroying the dark drawn comb, i treated it with BT and i have any problem with them now:thumbsup:.I have lost big swarms when i used 5 frame nucs, they would move in and leave in a day or two. I don't have that problem since i went to 10 frame deeps,i use 2 frames of dark comb and stagger the others, foundation, empty. foundation,empty, and so on.A cotton ball with a few drops of lemongrass oil slipped through the entrance works good also.Just another way of swarm trapping.
 

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A little damage won't matter. I current infestation may deter the scouts...
I really can't see damage from hive beetles, no slime that I am aware of and the wax moths had a little bit of webbing on the comb that I dug out or cut out. The combs are buried in the snow out back so I can't take a pic yet.
 

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I put out 5 frame deeps with a 5 frame medium on top for a little extra space, a frame or 2 of dark comb and some LGO. I take a hand full of q-tips and put them in a zip-loc bag and then pour in some LGO and let soak. Keep them in my tool bucket and they are ready to go when needed. Just drop in one or two in the trap or when collecting a swarm.
 

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I know there must be hundreds of thoughts on this, but where's the best location to put a swarm box? I've heard 8-12' off the ground, in 'special or certain' trees - as well as many other suggestions. I guess any space that's easily accessible is the best, but how to you determine the 'best' place - or what seems to work is most cases?
 

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I don't have access to trees very often so most common is just sitting on a cynder block or 2. Had 4 swarms move into them that way last spring. According to Seely in his Democracy book 10-15 feet off ground is the bees preference.
 

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Most of my bees are in wooded areas, i don't put swarm traps any higher than i can reach from the pickup trucks bed or the pickup bed tool box. After having both knees replaced , i don't want to risk climbing a ladder with a 10 frame hive or coming down with one.:rolleyes:
 

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I know there must be hundreds of thoughts on this, but where's the best location to put a swarm box? I've heard 8-12' off the ground, in 'special or certain' trees - as well as many other suggestions. I guess any space that's easily accessible is the best, but how to you determine the 'best' place - or what seems to work is most cases?
Places to put swarm traps are generally going to be places where a swarm would want to start a hive in the first place. Off the ground is good, exact height isn't really as important IMO as the fact that its far enough off the ground that animals couldn't come stick their noses into it. Somewhere near forage and open still water but not directly on top of it. Obviously swarms aren't going to go anywhere that there is nothing to eat/drink.

So in a tree near a park with flowers and sprinklers would be good, or near a small pond, etc.

Last fall I was setting up a haunted house at a local amusement park that includes a small lake/overgrown pond and noticed a lot of honeybee activity around the trash cans (not wasps, bees) where they were trying to suck up some sugar water out of the coke cans. I mean constant stream of bees. I intend to ask them if I can put a trap or two up on their property this year.
 

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Okay new to bee keeping lost my two hives I discovered this weekend. To get back into it I need to capture some bees. Swarm traps seem like the way. I read a lot about LGO what is it. I googled it but can't find it. Live by a lot of public land and plan to put about 10 to 20 out.
 

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Do a search for Essential Oils, Lemon Grass Oil. Should find you an online store to purchase some, good luck!
 

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I have two bottles of 100% LGO, one was given to me and has cymbopogon citratus on it and the other purchased at a health food store has cymbopogon flexuosus on it. What is the difference or are they the same thing? Used the cymbopogon citratus in a box last year and caught a swarm. Can't wait to try again this year.
 
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