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If I put a division board down the middle of a 10 frame deep and reduce the entrance to 4-5 inches then put a spacer in the middle of the entrance like the photo below...will the two entrances be too close?

Should I draw something above each entrance so the bees can tell them apart?

Or should I block off one side of the entrance and drill a hole on the opposite end of the deep so the bees can enter on opposite ends?
Water Liquid Fluid Wood Rectangle
 

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5 ,8 ,10 frame, and long Lang
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IMO that is to close for queen mating.
to let a 3 frame NUC turn into a 5 or
5X5 it should work fine.
I found splitting a deep to then not allow 5 on each side, A 4 and a 5 with the divider off center would work,
I use 1 block in the middle and leave 2.5 or so inches on either side and no bees touching in the middle.

Snow Wood Road surface Asphalt Gas

Here is a winter PIC
Yes I paint each side "unique"
the wood in the center is about as long as the block, the short on each end is winter reduction, and mouse guard holder.
the short yellow perf pipe was there for the Queen mateing to further differentiate the sides.
I did mate 2 queens successful here late spring. now at 5x5x5 for winter.
as well I made a custom bottom and first box, it is the exact width of 2 NUCs and does hold 5 frames on each side.
I recall the NUCs were 9.25 so this is 18.5 wide.

GG
 

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You can divide a regular 10 fr box but the divider needs to be 1/4 in or less and you need to keep frame sidebars cleaned of propolis.You will get 5 on each side but it's tight.A slightly oversized dado allows you to remove the divider if you want to expand to a single.Or you can expand upward with 4 fr supers
I make dedicated bottom boards with entrances(3/8"x3") on opposite long sides and a 3/4 in strip down the middle to complete the division.Since nucs are often moved,the bottoms are screwed to the box.
16x20 Reflectrix for inner cover gives a good seal.
 

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Beeves4u
I would do it as you said, but make it so the entrances were 1.5 inches wide at the outer edges. Make the center block a little longer to push the two entrances further outwards to the outer edges opposite from each other.

I have set nucs up close side by side with blocks in the entrances so that they were spread out away to the outer edges from each other and it worked fine. I also painted the boxes and/or lids different colors from each other.

Doing this makes it easier to inspect all boxes from the rear so as not to be blocking flight paths coming and going, which makes the inspecting time much easier on me and the bees both.
 

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As mentioned you wont be able to go up wih 5 frame nucs without really squeezing divider width and or frame spacing. Here it is with 4 framers on standard 10 frame base.

I have not had problems with the entrances as shown but you can add insurance by placing each one to the outer sides as mentioned. Having them twinned makes wrapping easier and more efficient. Sure adds to their stability compared to each one free standing. Tradeoffs; not so convenient to work on them in the active season.
 

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