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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a vaporizer and I understand from threads a target range of 300+ is required for the oxalic to do it thing. My questions are; does the 300+ degree piece of aluminum inside the hive have the potential to do harm? Ie; burn the poop out of them?! Seems awfull hot and not to far away from the bees! Two- at what temperature does the vaporizer over heat the acid , causing it' to change into the other substance I can't remember? I built mine without a sheet metal pan, does the pan disparate some of the conductive heat or just heat an even bigger area? Iam testing now for time and temp but it just seems awfull hot to have under you(if you were a bee) thanks for your help Charlie
 

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At least one of the patent evaporators has a heat break between the pan and the base plate. My take off on the glow plug heated vaporiser has a gap with two layers of fiberglass cloth to prevent the bottom from any scorching. I find it adviseable to smoke the entrance well and push a thin slat in to push aside, knock down any ladder comb that may be attached to frame bottoms. The heat rise is gradual enough that bees seem to get out of the way but occasionally you do find a couple in the bowl quite toasted.

I think the target range is around 320 F. and you should do a few trial runs to see how long of power on you need to just boil of the charge and not go much higher. As long as there is product on the pan the temperature will not go much higher but you probably should not leave it powered any longer than necessary to vaporize the OA. I use a timer. The dimensions, weight and material, plus the glow plug output is a combination that works and if you start from scratch and go on hunches, you may make a few before you get something even close to being as user friendly as the manufactured ones. I have made three now and still would make some changes if I did another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks I'll time with temp and make an educated guess. I have an old welding blanket I'll sand which between aluminum and pan. When the acid is boiling do you shut off or when it's gone from sight? Thanks charlie
 

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The welding blanket would be a good donor. You should pull power just before the last OA boils off. There is usually enough heat momentum to complete vaporizing the last of the charge without going much above the 320 F. temperature. One of those digital remote thermometer guns would be the cats whiskers for taking the guess work out.

Without having open flame you really have to get wax or wood smoking hot to get anywhere near its flash point but no use tempting the gods. My previous pan was a bit on the tall side and I did notice a bit of marking on a plastic frame bottom when the vaporizer tilted or rode up on some trash on the bottom board. I think it important to clean the bottom board and frame bottoms or if you are doing it along with a full inspection, roll the bottom hive back and see what the scene will be for the vaporizer. I have treated with hives wrapped so have to do more by feel. Early morning or cold weather when all the foragers are in, gets rid of the nuisance of them piling up trying to get in the blocked entrance while you are smoking the hive.
 

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in an open delevery system it will never get hot enough to convert it to a formic acid once it reaches its boiling point it won't get any hotter. To test this theory boil some water on the stove take the temp once its boiling and then let it boil for another 10 min and check the temp again.
 

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I would agree that over heating to the breakdown components point would be highly unlikely. Theoretically possible under extreme radiant heat source but that would not apply to any reasonable OA vaporizer. It is good to note though that after boil off of the OA that temperatures of the pan etc., could continue to rise to undesireable temps for the hive. I dont think any of the advertised ones have anything beyond pull the plug method of controlling this so you should do practice runs in the open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. I all ready cooked the 1107 so looks like 1104 next and after I spend 150 bucks screwing around I'll by one ! Thanks again
 

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The body of the glow plug needs to be clamped or screwed into a heat sink. The mass of the cyl. head they were designed to mount into serves as heat sink for their intended service. The heating tip should also be firmly pressed against the side of the heated pan for good heat transfer and limit its max temperature reached. The mounting block and the heat pan should be separate as much as possible to minimize heat loss from pan to the plug body mounting. I probably messed around a good part of 4 days to get something I could have had for a bit over a hundred bucks, but I enjoy that challenge and have the time.
 
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