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Question about splitting a hive

1860 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Superdeluxe3
Hi there,
I have a queen-less and very weak hive. I don't know what happened! They made it through the winter, everything looking fine and the next thing I knew there was no new brood, no queen and a few drone cells. Definitely some robbing going on. Weird:scratch:. I would like to know what happened so the same thing doesn't occur again.
I was told to move two frames of brood with bees from my new hive(we started another hive this year, before the other one starting having problems) into the weak one and move it least two miles away, then leave the hive for at least 4 weeks to allow them to create a new queen and allow her to mate. After that, if all goes well, I can move the hive back to my yard.
My question is, could I do the same thing but, not move the hive? I guess the nurse bees would just go back to the original hive and the brood may not have enough bees to care for them?
Thanks! ;)
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you can add frames of brood with bees and leave it in the same yard, most bees on the brood frames are nurse bees and will stay in the box you transferred them too. YOu will have a few foragers on that frame that will prob return to the mother hive. No need to move but help them quickly, oh and be sure the queen is not on the frames you transfer.
I make splits all the time in the same yard and they are only 10 foot from the hive I split from.
Two frames of brood and shake off two frames of bees in there also. 70% will remain. It takes time to find the Queen and most of the time you only see the evidence of brood.
When I cannot find her, I will make sure there is some 36 hour or less larvae in every split so they can raise a Queen if they have to.

Putting in frames of young brood doesn't mean they will always raise a queen, but there are some things you can do to make them Guaranteed to raise a queen.
Thank you both for the great advice!
Dale, what can I do to "guarantee" a new queen? I try to leave them to their own devices as much as possible but, I like to do what I can to help!!

Go to and read about On-The-Spot Queen Rearing. It works. Try to find larvae the size of this c or smaller.
I rake down 6 to 8 cells (not in the same spot) on a few frames and walk away. 8 days later their capped. The 10th up to the 14th day if I need queens, I'll cut some out to use but always leave at-least two cells.

If I cannot find the Queen when doing splits, which takes a-lot of time, all the splits and the donor hive gets O-T-S Queens.

When I do splits, I try to put the old Queen into the split. It breaks the Mite cycle on the donor hive.
+1 on Dale's post. The only thing I do different is to use a Q-Tip or grafting needle and take out all the larva around the pulled down cell, especially directly below it five or six rows. We usually pull down 4 or 5 cells on a frame and place that frame back in facing some pollen and honey. The little boogers draw real nice cells on these!
Great website! Thank you so much for the advice! :)
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