I have at times screwed a small board to the side of the top box such that it blocks part of the top entrance.
I'd love to see a photo of this if you get a chance. Thanks.My hives are all top entrances with 3/4" shims. I rip a 3/4 board on the table saw to 1" and cut it the width of the opening. Then I cut a section out about 3/4" long halfway through it. Then move down a couple of inches and rotate it 1/4 turn cut out a section 2-3" long halfway through. That gives me 3 options: no reducer, reduced down to about a 2-3" entrance, or turn the reducer 1/4 turn and its reduced to about 2 bee widths. I don't tack or glue anything, just set them in place. The bees will have them glued down by the time I check them again.
Is this how you go through winter? Thanks for posting the photos.I use #8 hardware cloth on mine. The easiest way is to form it into a wedge shape and stick it in. The length is easily changed by first folding it over.
I normally use no entrance reducers in winter on my top entrance hives. The last picture is from last winter. I had a shim on with solid sugar cake and actually had some robbing in January. That is why I reduced the entrance down then.Is this how you go through winter?
And the bees don't get stuck to it?I use duct tape as my entrance reducer. All my hives have upper entrances.
Tom
No, the bees don't get stuck on the duct tape.And the bees don't get stuck to it?