Queen Excluder type
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I am a fan of the wood bound metal ones.
I like the space under and over.
Can be used for 2 queen setups as well
Never used the complete plastic so I cannot ofer any input there.
GG
I like the space under and over.
Can be used for 2 queen setups as well
Never used the complete plastic so I cannot ofer any input there.
GG
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2,909 Posts
I have both wood bound and metal bound excluders, and like Gray Goose I prefer the wood bound because of the bee space issues. They are less prone to bend because of less burr comb being formed.
I am betting you get a lot of differing opinion here. I have used them all and my opinion has evolved greatly over the years. I originally liked the wood bound excluders for the exact reason stated above. However, I started having some rot issues. Might not be an issue in all environments. I used to hate the plastic excluders, but have grown to like them more and more. I don't have to worry about bending them. I use the metal excluders the most because I have the most of them. I like them a great deal for their durability through the years, but, like AR Beek said, you have to be very careful prying them off so that you do not bend the metal.
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5,506 Posts
Plastic QX formatted for 10-frame boxes works great on more than just 10-frame Lang boxes.
You can use them on most any N-frame equipment and non-standard equipment too (they will simply stick out, some, which is a non-issue).
When in a pinch, you can cut and fit the plastic to any custom size and shape.
This multi-use of the plastic QX is a winner for me.
You can use them on most any N-frame equipment and non-standard equipment too (they will simply stick out, some, which is a non-issue).
When in a pinch, you can cut and fit the plastic to any custom size and shape.
This multi-use of the plastic QX is a winner for me.
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2,321 Posts
For queen-rearing, wood-bound wire excluders.
To restrict the Queen's movement, fenestrated plywood for verticals, or truncated (shortened) division boards for horizontals. Both of these allow unrestricted passage of both workers and drones.
LJ
To restrict the Queen's movement, fenestrated plywood for verticals, or truncated (shortened) division boards for horizontals. Both of these allow unrestricted passage of both workers and drones.
LJ
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785 Posts
The mann lake metal bound ones seem to work extremely well.
so try a couple of each. for some application it does not matter others you will find one is better, perhaps a mix would be more flexible.
GG
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787 Posts
Woodbound is probably best- but can rot if not kept painted (like these for queen rearing and shaker boxes)
metalbound work great and last years. you lose the bee space however (what I use for honey production when I use excluders)
plastic- cost less, shorter shelf life, can be cut up for nucs, entrances, and specialty projects
When all said and done I think the metal last longest, so for a functioning excluder that will last longest for honey production, metal are probably best buy
metalbound work great and last years. you lose the bee space however (what I use for honey production when I use excluders)
plastic- cost less, shorter shelf life, can be cut up for nucs, entrances, and specialty projects
When all said and done I think the metal last longest, so for a functioning excluder that will last longest for honey production, metal are probably best buy
Seconded. I have always used a blow torch too. Heat gun makes a lot more sense. Thanks for the tip Titus.
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2,321 Posts
Blow torch on stainless sure, but only use a hot-air gun on galvanised - unless you want therm to rust.
LJ
I built my solar melter such that it can fit a stack of 20 excluders. Works like magic.
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