No,I never did.I just watched the talk by Ralph Buchler and am similarly interested in the queen cage or the trapping comb approach. It sounds like timing is important- starting a few weeks before the honey harvest. Did you end up ordering the queen cage?
So I've seen the Buchler videos and became interested like a few people on this thread. We also never have a natural brood break here in coastal California, so I wanted to try out what would happen if I could have them go broodless during out dry late summer/fall. Sorry I'm reviving an old thread, but no one has answered the OP about the Var-Control cages used in the US.It was interesting how the speaker made it sound such an effective method and he even said that major commercial beekeepers in Italy who run even as many as 1000 hives are using this method. And then the responses in this thread made it sound as if it really hasn’t worked for others. Perplexing. Well I wondered about with the cage is whether the bees would end up gumming it up with wax or propolis. Maybe it wouldn’t be as easy to reopen as it appears in the textbook demonstration. Particularly if you’re leaving it there all the time, which is what Ralph said many beekeepers do.
Thanks for sharing the video. Even with the auto translate, I couldn't understand exactly what all the different shapes of confinement cage were for. He had a huge variety! Can anyone enlighten me?:scratch:Cages for temporary confinement are easily made from regular excluders.
This guy practices queen confinement both in summer and in winter and knows the stuff.
Here is a full video dedicated to the confinement cages - in short (he says) it does not really matter which kind; they all work.
(just look at his gear or turn on the caption auto-translate):