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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sure I am stating the obvious, but I want a sanity check before purchasing a ProVap110.

If I have all of my hives, currently 30 and growing yearly, on 4 way pallets, I would need to put the hole on the front of the hives rather than the back as you cannot get to the back when the hives are on the pallet. Is there a draw back to holes on the front vs. rear other than dealing with the bee's coming in and out.

Thanks in advance.

V/R
 

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I'm thinking since you are supposed to close up the hive during treatment and for ten minutes thereafter, maybe you could make several entrance reducers with only a hole to accommodate your vaporizer. If a hole were to be drilled in front, above the reducer, the vapor would go between the frames instead of under. It is my understanding the hole in the rear is drilled into the bottom board, under the frames, not the hive body.

I am pretty sure there would be no difference in treatment success, front or back.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinking since you are supposed to close up the hive during treatment and for ten minutes thereafter, maybe you could make several entrance reducers with only a hole to accommodate your vaporizer. If a hole were to be drilled in front, above the reducer, the vapor would go between the frames instead of under. It is my understanding the hole in the rear is drilled into the bottom board, under the frames, not the hive body.

I am pretty sure there would be no difference in treatment success, front or back.

Alex
Thanks, your response made me go back to their website and double check and you are correct.......
This is from their website:

"You can use the ProVap in the front entrances as well if you wish. Rather than closing the entrance with rags or whatever you choose and inserting the vaporizer in an open area, simply take a paint stick, cut it to the desired length and drill a ¼” hole in the center of the paint stick. Slide the stick over the stem and you have an effective vapor block. With a number of these pre-drilled sticks, you can easily “march right down the line” vaporizing."

V/R
 

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When I first bought mine, I drilled the holes in some of the hive bodies and it just about killed me to do so. Since then, I made wooden entrance blockers that are just barely short of covering the entire opening and vaporized through that opening. It works like a charm. That tiny hole does not leak much vapor and have not noticed any reduced efficiency. I have also vaporized through a partially closed opening in the inner cover. That works just fine too.
 

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If you go to Youtube and look, "A Canadian Beekeeper’s Blog" he has a video of them using the provap to do the hives through the front entrance without any holes being drilled.
 

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I have a bunch of old sock to be thrown away and I will give the hives a puff of smoke then twist then to a rope and put in the front entrance.Then come back and use the provap 110.Then move on to the next bunch.I had drilled holes in the backs of my bottom boards and tried that but it didnt work well so I went back to the socks in the entrance.Plus in the entrance you have the bottom board for it to sit on while load your next cap full.Do leave your socks out and let them get wet.They will then cool of the tip and your acid will clog up in the tip.The 1/4" holes in the bottom board your small soft copper tube will start to bend out of shape if you dont hold it.While holding it you cant load your next cap nor advance to putting the rolled up socks in other entrances.
 
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