Wow... looks like I missed a lot of good stuff. Wish I'd been there for all of it, but these would have been really nice:
1. the use of 10 frame equipment, 8 frame, and 5 frame nucs
2. The use of wooden nucs and Styrofoam nucs
5. Last dates to start a nuc
6. Candy boards
8. Proper ventilation
9. entrance reducers
10. Moisture buildup inside the hive
11. The importance of creating nucs during nectar flows
I'll see if I can get that recording. Thanks!
Well, I don't have time to transcribe all of it from memory, but I'll see if I can't give you the pointers on a few. If anyone else remembers something I didn't, feel free to add it in.
1. He talked a bit about how to take 8 frame equipment and use it to create five frame nucs, how to feed and overwinter in five frame nucs, or to transfer to 8/10 frames if need be. He also talked about the myth that Langstrove designed the 10 frame hive after a champagne box. He seemed to say that an 8 frame box is lighter in weight, and more adapt for backyard beekeeping. He also mentioned that 5 frames are very important and should be incorporated into everyones system.
2. He mainly used wooden nucs, but talked a bit about the different types of Styrofoam nucs available, how they can provide added ventilation, added heat retention, as well as being one single unit instead of several different pieces. He hadn't come to a conclusion, but talked about how individuals should look into the feasibility, and try it out for themselves.
5. Very dependent on the location. He geared it toward two regions: Georgia and Connecticut (If I remember correctly). The last date was largely dependent on the last fall flow. Nuc building is heavily dependent on the flows. For Connecticut that would be the end of September. Further north would be a month earlier, and further south may be October.
6. Candy boards were lightly touched on, but said he supported them and are a good project for local beekeeping organizations. He talked about using walmart bought frosting mix and how the benefit is that they are dry so they can be kept on the whole winter.
8. Ventilation is very important. The entrance reducer needs to be enough to reduce the entrance (I know) but still provide air flow. He said ideally he should have cut a hole in the back of his nucs and put hardware cloth over it, but he hadn't gotten around to it. The Styrofoam nucs had these ventilation holes, but he talked about how some areas, if you position them too much, the wind blows into it and it becomes too cold.
9. Entrancer reducers were very important to him. He talked about how Langstrove used them and stressed them, and how wide they should be. Not too important the material, just so much that it's there. Some make it as wide as one bee width, but he prefered a larger opening.
10. He had some method of using burlap sacks or something that wick the moisture out. I didn't really understand it, and he hadn't perfected it yet. It was really mentioned in the end and not in too much depth.
11. I kinda talked about this before in the timing section, but the amount of food available in a nuc while it builds up is very important. If you don't have nectar coming in you have to feed, and feeding a number of nucs gets expensive.
Does that help answer your concerns? I know I just lightly touched on them, so if you want me to go further into depth on any one issue, I can try. My hands just get tired typing this out.
