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What size extractor would you prefer to see from Thorne Mfg. in addition to their 36/20?

  • 12/6 radial

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  • 20/12 radial

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POLL for a new size of USA made extractors for Hobby and Sideliners

1009 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  joebeewhisperer
A message from Thorne Mfg.

"We are in the process of designing the smaller extractor that we have mentioned a few times over the past months. We want to hear from all of you that are in the market for a smaller unit, which of the following size would best suit your needs. All the options listed will be powered by the same style U.S. made motor that is on our 36/20 Frame extractor."
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5 ,8 ,10 frame, and long Lang
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Kamon,
Great Idea.
However...
The smaller ones I have used the the deep frames do not extract well.
Especially the bottom of the frame which ends up very near the center of the extractor.

Not enough that the frame "Fits" the entire frame must be far enough from the center to have enough centrifugal force to function properly. mediums empty fine but they are 2.x inches farther from the center. its a math thing, :)

IMO the drum is too small in diameter, Id rather see a slightly bigger drum work at a slightly slower speed.
TEST it with thick honey on deep frames.

GG
 

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There is a minimum diameter tub and cage for deep frames for the reasons GG mentions. The only way to scale them down is to go to radial for the mediums and tangential positioning of the deep frames. I have a 9 - 18 and it has the problem GG mentions with poor extration of inner part of deeps unless temperature is well up.
 

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5 ,8 ,10 frame, and long Lang
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There is a minimum diameter tub and cage for deep frames for the reasons GG mentions. The only way to scale them down is to go to radial for the mediums and tangential positioning of the deep frames. I have a 9 - 18 and it has the problem GG mentions with poor extration of inner part of deeps unless temperature is well up.
mine is the 9-18 as well
mediums do very well
the deep do very poor, when getting to the top speed, to empty has some of them "breaking up"
since the mediums do so well IMO a 2.5 inch bigger radius should resolve.

GG
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great feedback so far! The extractor will be tested by pro sized ops before it hits the market. If it isn't great then it won't make the youtube videos until they get it right!

I know Jed Thorne though and he will have it made to last like the good old days when it is done.
 

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10F Langstroths
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Great feedback so far! The extractor will be tested by pro sized ops before it hits the market. If it isn't great then it won't make the youtube videos until they get it right!

I know Jed Thorne though and he will have it made to last like the good old days when it is done.
Kamon, when can you get a hand on one of their clarifiers so we can get a look at it. There aren't a lot of good options out there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kamon, when can you get a hand on one of their clarifiers so we can get a look at it. There aren't a lot of good options out there!
Yessir I will!
 

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A bit off topic but...

Having just checked out their site via the OP link (as I'd not yet heard of the company), I'd just say that whatever size extractor they make, I'd suggest having stainless covers on top. At least as an option. I don't like the poly covers on extractors such as the SAF Natura or Lyson extractors. I tend to associate the use with products made outside the US.

In my experience, polycarbonate get cloudy over time as they inevitably get scratched. They also eventually get left open while running, fall closed and crack and/or break. Nothing quite as sweet as spending a couple of thousand dollars on an extractor to be looking at a broken cover every time you use it. Trust me.

To me, polycarbonate covers read as something designed for cost savings or less intense use. Not as industrial. I'd never buy one with those kinds of covers.

I know it's a bit off topic, but I offer it as a suggestion.

Adam
 

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There is a minimum diameter tub and cage for deep frames for the reasons GG mentions. The only way to scale them down is to go to radial for the mediums and tangential positioning of the deep frames. I have a 9 - 18 and it has the problem GG mentions with poor extration of inner part of deeps unless temperature is well up.
mine is the 9-18 as well
mediums do very well
the deep do very poor, when getting to the top speed, to empty has some of them "breaking up"
since the mediums do so well IMO a 2.5 inch bigger radius should resolve.

GG
So glad both you guys confirmed this before I buy something that's not suited to purpose.

@Kamon A. Reynolds, my wish list would include a radial that extracts 3-5 deeps, has adequate power to empty the inner parts without tearing up the outside. I'm generally uncapping by myself by hand, so low speeds with longer times are acceptable to a point. I'm only extracting deeps, and with all plastic foundation, so they are pretty durable.
 

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So glad both you guys confirmed this before I buy something that's not suited to purpose.
Joe my 9/18 kinda "works"
I am mostly extracting "New" deep comb as at times the second deep was timed" to be a super, My Bad.
And I pull full frames from 5 over 5 NUCs.
And many springs I used to have 100 frames of honey.
By extracting 60 or so,, I now Have comb and some honey which works for making nucs.
The new frames with softer wax seemed to not fully extract, unless I went to 100%, then a few blew up.
So if you extract 90% amount of medium , then only take the new deeps to 75-80 % speed it works.
As well if you can accept 75% honey removal of white comb deeps it also works.
the comb with cocoon's seem fine.
Some what a corner case, but a good design would handle this frame as well.
BTW the plastic foundation seems ok for the blow outs but still not completely empty.
I have a few from NUC purchases, I use wired brood wax.

GG
 

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Joe my 9/18 kinda "works"
I am mostly extracting "New" deep comb as at times the second deep was timed" to be a super, My Bad.
And I pull full frames from 5 over 5 NUCs.
And many springs I used to have 100 frames of honey.
By extracting 60 or so,, I now Have comb and some honey which works for making nucs.
The new frames with softer wax seemed to not fully extract, unless I went to 100%, then a few blew up.
So if you extract 90% amount of medium , then only take the new deeps to 75-80 % speed it works.
As well if you can accept 75% honey removal of white comb deeps it also works.
the comb with cocoon's seem fine.
Some what a corner case, but a good design would handle this frame as well.
BTW the plastic foundation seems ok for the blow outs but still not completely empty.
I have a few from NUC purchases, I use wired brood wax.

GG
Joe my 9/18 kinda "works"
I am mostly extracting "New" deep comb as at times the second deep was timed" to be a super, My Bad.
And I pull full frames from 5 over 5 NUCs.
And many springs I used to have 100 frames of honey.
By extracting 60 or so,, I now Have comb and some honey which works for making nucs.
The new frames with softer wax seemed to not fully extract, unless I went to 100%, then a few blew up.
So if you extract 90% amount of medium , then only take the new deeps to 75-80 % speed it works.
As well if you can accept 75% honey removal of white comb deeps it also works.
the comb with cocoon's seem fine.
Some what a corner case, but a good design would handle this frame as well.
BTW the plastic foundation seems ok for the blow outs but still not completely empty.
I have a few from NUC purchases, I use wired brood wax.

GG
I believe this has been discussed before and have seen the figure of 90 F. to be the best temperature for extraction. My conditions would likely have been more in the 70 F. range. The discrepancy in G force between inner and outer radius is accentuated with deep as opposed to medium frame height. Not sure if simply increasing radius by say three inches, would result in less G force variation. It is simple math problem but I would have to do some drastic refreshing to answer that question:LOL:.
 

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I spoke with Mr Thorne at last years (2022) hive life show. I asked if he could incorporate a balancing ring to help take some of the vibration out. Very simple idea and could be incorporated very easily. Plus there is not anybody that has one on the market.
 

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Joe my 9/18 kinda "works"
I am mostly extracting "New" deep comb as at times the second deep was timed" to be a super, My Bad.
And I pull full frames from 5 over 5 NUCs.
And many springs I used to have 100 frames of honey.
By extracting 60 or so,, I now Have comb and some honey which works for making nucs.
The new frames with softer wax seemed to not fully extract, unless I went to 100%, then a few blew up.
So if you extract 90% amount of medium , then only take the new deeps to 75-80 % speed it works.
As well if you can accept 75% honey removal of white comb deeps it also works.
the comb with cocoon's seem fine.
Some what a corner case, but a good design would handle this frame as well.
BTW the plastic foundation seems ok for the blow outs but still not completely empty.
I have a few from NUC purchases, I use wired brood wax.

GG
Thanks for the detail. :)
 
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