[SWM]

I started out using wired beeswax foundation 30 years ago and later switched to Duragilt, always using wedged top bar frames. This year I'm going to try Plasticell in wooden frames. My question is this: Do I need to use wedged top bar frames, or will Plasticell bend and snap into a grooved top bar frame? It would save a lot of time and labor if it will.

Thanks in advance for your advice...

 

[loggermike]

Yes, it is made to bend and fit into a grooved top bar ,and grooved bottom bar frame.Works good.

 

[AmericasBeekeeper]

Grooved-grooved frames are for all plastic foundations and natural foundation when cross-wired. I would go with the new Kelley frames with grooved end bars too. If you run Duragilt through an extractor, you will be installing new foundation if the edges are not secured. Wedge top bars are for vertically wired foundation with hooks. If you can make slotted top or bottom bars last, you are a gentle beekeeper.

americasbeekeeper.com
americasbeekeeper.org

 

[SWM]

I've been using Duragilt foundation for 25 years in wedged top bar/slotted bottom bar frames with no breakage in the extractor. For clarificaton, I use a 20 frame radial extractor. However, I've heard good things about Plasticell and I'm eager to try it.

 

[Fuzzy]

Plasticell works fine with GTB/GBB frames. Occasionally one of the grooves is too deep and the plasticell sheet is a bit short. In that case I put a couple of small wax balls in the bottom groove to force the top of the sheet up into the groove. I have NEVER had a blowout during a radial extraction. But I could see it happening on a tangential setup.

Fuzzy

 

[Grant]

If I have the chance to buy new frames, I go with grooved top and grooved bottom boards. Snapping in the plastic is easy and quick.

This winter I've been rehabbing some old frames to renovate for sheets of plastic foundation. They have divided bottom boards. I horizontally nail the wedge bar with 3/4" nails that will also go through the plastic (elec brad nailer is a HUGE help) into the solid portion of the top bar. Then I also drive a couple of 5/8" brads, by hand, through the divided bottom bars which also penetrates the plastic.

It works pretty good. Basically I'm just getting too frugal in my cranky old age to toss these old frames away. By the time I'm done, I should have bought the new. Time is money, but I seem to have more time than money. And rahabbing old frames while watching NFL football games on a cold winter day in my heated shop is some of the best therapy I can afford!

I'm also taking many of the old brood frames and gluing a popsicle strips with the intent of going foundationless.

Grant
Jackson, MO

 

[concrete-bees]

My two cents sounds like a re-run((

but yeah snap and go!!!! and never look back - its the best

im a fan of wood frames and plastic foundation but ive never tried the all plastic frames ?? anyone have pros and cons on them ???

thanks

 

[Grant]

Again, if I'm buying new, my preference is all plastic. But I've got all these old wood frames and I'm just too cheap.

I've bought the all-one-piece plastic. A buddy of mine doesn't care for them as they jam his older Cowen uncapper. I'm still in the stone age with an uncapping knife so they don't bother me.

And I'm quick to add that extra coat of melted bees wax. Once in a while, maybe 1 out of 100 will warp. Wax moths can't touch them. The pro's outweigh the con's.

Grant
Jackson, MO

 

[concrete-bees]

thanks grant - also one other quick question - do you think the full drawn plastic is better then the base foundation ??