[shannonswyatt]

Honestly I found it easy to just use 1x12s on the side and a 1x8 for the bottom, and to cut the bottoms so you get the angle you are looking for. I use 120 degrees, so I cut a 30 degree angle on each board and glue them up. with this setup I end up with 19 inch bars with about a 1 inch tang on each end. of the bar.

I made my first hive first, then I made the bars.

Some folks say to make a follower board first and then build the hive based on that. But for me the available lumber drives the dimensions.

Don't sweat this too much, the main thing when making them is to be able to make them the same each time. The bees won't be measuring the angles!

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

Welcome to Beesource!

> How do I change the measurements to make follower boards that will fit Bushs' hive dimensions ...

Make the hive per Mr Bush's plans, but use screws to attach one of the end boards instead of nails. Then run a pencil mark around the inside corners of the end board (where the sides meet the end). Now remove the screws from the end board and cut it based on the pencil marks. Attach a new board for the TBH end.

 

[Michael Bush]

Screw the end on with a piece of cardboard between the end and the sides. Cut the cardboard to fit. Take the screws out and remove the scraps of cardboard...

Cardboard is hard to beat for a template for anything...

Another option is just cut three ends instead of two. Screw both ends on and mark one (as per Rader Sidetrack's instructions) and remove it and cut it for the follower. Attach the other left over end and you are done...

 

[BackwoodsBeeman]

Thank you everyone for your helpful answers. I'm still trying to decide on the hive length. I'm leaning toward the five foot hive, but no larger than that.

 

[T0ADMAN]

If you didn't make the follower boards before making the hives, you can do what I did. Measure how wide the top is. Measure how wide the bottom is. Measure how deep the hive is from the floor to the bars.

I used styrofoam insulation as a template to be sure it fit before cutting wood, but cardboard would work well, too. Of course I see no reason that my styrofoam one can't be used as well and I plan to cut a space on the bottom to use with a boardman feeder.

Then you draw a center line to use as your starting point. Draw a top line that is the depth of the hive above the bottom. Measure half the width to each side of the center line at both the top and bottom. Use a straight edge to draw the outside edges. Works like a charm.

In theory you could calculate the width of the top and bottom by subtracting the width of the boards, but once it's built, it's easier to just measure.

 

[T0ADMAN]

As for hive length, I like MB's recommendation to make it slightly shorter than 4' so you can use 4' boards to make the cover. I made mine with 19" bars and a 4'x8' sheet makes 4 perfect sized covers with just enough overhang.

 

[shannonswyatt]

The way that I build my hives is I attach the sides to the bottom before I put on the ends. Because of this it is easy to put a piece of paper at the end of the hive before attaching the end boards.

At this point though I usually don't bother making followers until after construction. The hives are all the same size and with the exception of one that had a bad cup in it I'm able to use the same followers in all the hives.

I like the idea of making one from foam or cardboard though. You could also use butcher paper or heavy paper and fold it until you get a nice fit and then use that as the template.

 

[AugustC]

The best thing about the chandler style is you make the follower boards then fit the hive to them. So what ever size tou make them will be your hive size.
There are indepth plans on my blog below.
Based on a topbar overhang of 1" on each side. Your follower baord would be 13" across the top, be 11 1/8" deep, have a 12" sloped side, and 6" across the bottom .... or something like that

 

[AugustC]

Sorry, didn't include link.
http://augustcottageapiary.wordpress.com/building-plans-for-a-topbar-hive/