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This is my first spring with my bees. I amconsidering vaporizing oxalic acid. I have read on this forum that the oxalic need to go from the solid crystal to a gas without changing into a liquid first. I am having trouble getting it to do this. I have made several trial runs, with different on and off timings, but have not succeeded yet. I am using a homemade vaporizer I saw on this forum. I would appreciate any suggestion.
 

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My home aid vaporizer turns the powder to a liquid and then it starts vaporizing and it kills lots of mites. I think what you have made will work. Just remember oxalic only kills the phoretic mites so you will have to do multiple treatments to make much of a difference.
 

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When oxalic acid is heated it goes from a solid to a liquid. As the temp incresses it then turns to a gas.With my vaporizer it takes apx 60 seconds to go to liquid then starts gassing off. After 2 mins. it is finished.
 

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The stuff one buys is usually oxalic acid dihydrate, which is a crystal which has two water molecules attached to each oxalic acid molecule.


1) The water of hydration leaves at 101.5° C (214.7° F) The water boils off leaving anhydrous oxalic acid crystals.
2) At 157° C (314.6° F) the oxalic acid starts to sublime (goes directly from solid to gas)
3) At 189° C (372.2° F) the oxalic acid which has not yet sublimed decomposes to formic acid and carbon monoxide.
 

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It is in the evaporator i use, Mike.

But it is for a very short time, as the whole process only takes 25 seconds from start to Finnish, this is a pressure evaporator.

With the passive evaporators, which are used from cold, it would also have to go through the stage during heating up where the water content would be boiling off.

Video of one of the tailor made passive evaporators.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32eeVDJ5JqQ
 

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Im building one using a rex c100. keep the bowl warm until vapor heat is selected. Could put a timer on the vapor heat so it would be "set and walk away". Shows real time temp of the bowl. 40 watt soldering iron /w decal remover tip for the heat source and thermocouple mounting point. Precise temp control (according to the spec sheet... it is the cheapest temp controller on the auction site... make sure to get the proper voltage input.). Use extension cord or cheap convertor and a battery. Use an outdoor outlet box to mount it in. Got all the parts in front of me right now... Just haven't put it all together. Not a lot of $$$ to build.
 

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If allowed to go past the temp required to turn it into formic acid, would that formic vapor be an effective treatment?
 

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Only a portion of the converted gas will be formic acid; water vapor plus carbon monoxide are also part of the breakdown components. The initial charge of OA crystals is only 2 grams to start with while a normal effective dose of 65% Formic acid is usually in the neighborhood of 30 grams.
 
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