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Hi All,
I am interested in learning more about oxalic acid treatments for varroa. I've researched several different sites and still am a bit confused about how this is done. One main question is it is recommended to treat at a "broodless" time. My hives, unless queenless always seem to have a few frames of brood going.
When is the best time of year to treat? Would spring be okay? Does it have to be above 55 to treat or can I treat over the winter?
What method do you use to treat? Do you smolder the oxalic acid by inserting it inside the entrace above a solid bottom board or below a screened bottom board?
Is there anything I have to be careful of? (Over treating, ventilation, damaging bees...)

Any information would be great! Thanks to all!
 

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Sorry I don't have any answers. I will be watching to see what beeks say. My question is where can you get Oxalic acid?:scratch:
 

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I have used an Oxalic Acid Vaporizer with great results. If you check out the link below you will find the model I used with instructions and diagrams on how to use it.

It's best to treat when the colony is somewhat active and not tightly clustered. Unfortunately this means you are treating when there is brood in the colony. I treated in late summer/early fall with three treatments at 1 week intervals. This seemed to also knock down most of the mites emerging with the brood. If you time it right you will have very healthy mite free bees going into winter.

I treated my colonies very early in the morning before they became active. Stuff cloth into the entrance, treat, and leave the colony sealed up for 10-15 minutes before removing the cloth. I never ran into an overheating problem and have used the vaporizer both on solid bottom boards and under a screened bottom board.

By the way, an appropriate mask is a must. One whiff of vapor and you'll know why.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/orioleln/Vaporizer.htm

You can find Oxalic Acid at some hardware stores. They sell it as "Wood Bleach". Check the label to make sure it's 100% OA.
 

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Which do you have the 200 or the 600? I found plenty of crystals 99.6% and liquid for sale. Thanks so very much!! I probably am going to go to Russians when I purchase new bees as they are supposed to be mite resistant.Any input on the Russians will be appreciated.
I have used an Oxalic Acid Vaporizer with great results. If you check out the link below you will find the model I used with instructions and diagrams on how to use it.

It's best to treat when the colony is somewhat active and not tightly clustered. Unfortunately this means you are treating when there is brood in the colony. I treated in late summer/early fall with three treatments at 1 week intervals. This seemed to also knock down most of the mites emerging with the brood. If you time it right you will have very healthy mite free bees going into winter.

I treated my colonies very early in the morning before they became active. Stuff cloth into the entrance, treat, and leave the colony sealed up for 10-15 minutes before removing the cloth. I never ran into an overheating problem and have used the vaporizer both on solid bottom boards and under a screened bottom board.

By the way, an appropriate mask is a must. One whiff of vapor and you'll know why.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/orioleln/Vaporizer.htm

You can find Oxalic Acid at some hardware stores. They sell it as "Wood Bleach". Check the label to make sure it's 100% OA.
 

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What is regarded as an appropriate mask when vaporizing oxalic acid?

Walt
I use an AOSafety 8053 P-100.
NIOSH 1277B

"8053-P100 (8053 Cartridge with P100 Filter)
Organic Vapors, Acid Gases and P100: Approved to help
protect against organic vapors, chlorine, hydrogen chloride,
hydrogen fluoride, sulfur dioxide, chlorine dioxide and solid
and liquid particulates that may contain oil (99.97% efficiency)."

http://www.aosafety.com/aosafety.com/products.htmhttp://www.aearo.com/pdf/RespiratorCatalog12_06.pdf

It has worked well for OA vaporizing and Thymol fogging protection.
 

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Sorry I don't have any answers. I will be watching to see what beeks say. My question is where can you get Oxalic acid?:scratch:
Hi have been reading The best and easiest place to buy O.A. is at your local Pharmacy you will bee amazed at what you can buy off the shelf .. like all the chems you want for your Chemistry set Just I would believe know one thinks about it ..any more and the purity is there and it is normally cheaper .. hope to been of a help..
 

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I use the 12 volt model with about 20ft of wire. 20 ft keeps me away during the burn and always up wind. Because of this i dont wear my resporater. I seal the hives with 2 x 16" pc's of carpet foam. I do it early morning and 3 time's a week apart. I treat when temps are above 40 degs in spring and late summer just before goldenrod. this gives me a couple of healthy mite free brood cycles before winter. I can do 5 hives at a time. I have five little timers that beep. I seal five in a row with the foam and duct tape on upper holes and cracks. I set a timer on each set at 2 minutes. I fill the bowl and slide it into the 1st. Hook it up to my truck and hit the timer. At 2 minutes it beeps. I unhook the power, pull the burner out and reseal. I then set that timer for 10 minutes, cool the bowl, reload and slide it into the 2nd and the whole thing starts over.
 

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I read a paper comparing Sucrocide to Oxalic Acid yesterday (see link below). Why is the 3% Oxalic acid sugar solution applied by the "dribble" method rather than putting into a plastic spray bottle and spraying each fame? I would think this would ensure a higher percentage of contact between bees and the acid. Is it a safety issue or am I missing something else?
http://www.ars.usda.gov/SP2UserFiles/person/31186/oxalic.pdf

Thanks,
chris
 

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Some people use it in a garden sprayer, but I don't think they remove the frames. Probably to save time, maybe not necessary.

I'v bleached decks & gotten the stuff on me without any problems to my skin. But everyone is different, some have more sensitive skin than others. I wouldn't want to get it in my eyes.
 

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I've used the dribble method in fall (usually early October) and have had great success. The only problem I've had is the occasional "hot" hive that doesn't like being exposed. I've never really felt that the vaporizer approach was necessary, but that may be a personal preference. While some worry about a toxicity knockdown, I've never really observed it. Can't see why it's taking so long to be accepted legally in the US.
 

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It will probably never be registered in the U.S. because of the amount of money involved to get it registered and no opportunity for a return on the investment because it is already readily and cheaply available as a wood bleach. The reason to use the vaporizer method is that by the time you should do the dribble (broodless) the damage is already done to the bees. You need to treat in July or early August to have good healthy bees going into winter.
 

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Question jdpro5010: Are you saying you vaporize even while supers are on, or do you only treat in cases of infestation?
 

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I use the JB-200 vaporizer at about this time of year to try to catch them broodless (need to get off my butt and do this)
the vapor doesn't penetrate the cells so they need to be broodless for best effect
the only caveat is YOU DON"T WANT TO BREATH THE FUMES!!
very unpleasant and caused kidney stones (maybe kidney cancer)
that's why the dribble method or the vaporizer are good
dribble-no fumes
electric vaporizer- you can stand way back
DON"T USE THE PROPANE TORCH CRACK PIPE!
otherwise, it works great
here's pics of copies I made of the original

http://drobbins.net/bee's/oa_evaporator/

Dave
 
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