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If you over winter in single deeps, what is your configuration? I am currently using single deeps, an excluder and will probably leave one supper. I plan to feed after removing honey supers. First year with single brood boxes. Had high rates of swarming so I have many hives with new queens and now very active this late time of the year. I hope to keep them alive over winter.
 

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If you over winter in single deeps, what is your configuration? I am currently using single deeps, an excluder and will probably leave one supper. I plan to feed after removing honey supers. First year with single brood boxes. Had high rates of swarming so I have many hives with new queens and now very active this late time of the year. I hope to keep them alive over winter.
Overwintering in single deeps implies nothing is left on top. If you are having lots of swarming issues with singles, I would consider using two brood boxes.
 

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If you over winter in single deeps, what is your configuration? I am currently using single deeps, an excluder and will probably leave one supper. I plan to feed after removing honey supers. First year with single brood boxes. Had high rates of swarming so I have many hives with new queens and now very active this late time of the year. I hope to keep them alive over winter.
I'm in the same situation.Had a lot of swarming this summer and also going into winter with a couple single brood boxes. I'll probably feed heavy this fall, and add candy boards later on, and keep my fingers crossed.
 

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If you over winter in single deeps, what is your configuration? I am currently using single deeps, an excluder and will probably leave one supper. I plan to feed after removing honey supers. First year with single brood boxes. Had high rates of swarming so I have many hives with new queens and now very active this late time of the year. I hope to keep them alive over winter.
Queen excluders are never to be used with any hives during winter months. I over winter in single and double deeps. It depends on the hive strength at the end of the season. I use single deeps for hives that are less than 10 frames of bees, ideally 5 frames of bees. If the hive is 10 frames of bees or more it won't work.
 

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This video may be helpful. If they can do it in Ontario you probably can to.

Also, Ian Steglar does 1500 colonies in Manitoba, Single deeps and 6 frame nucs all wintered as singles. Swarm control does become a major issue and feeding is mandatory at times of the year. More hands on for sure than running double deeps.
 

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I overwintered for the first time in a single deep last winter. Above the deep I had a shin with a top entrance hole, an eek with 10lbs of sugar in it (directions below) and above that another eek filled with wood chips (directions below). The candy serves as back up food (obviously) but also absorbs moisture. The moist air hits the candy (held with a plastic QE) and it gets absorbed by sugar and softens it making it easy for them to eat. Any remaining moist air that makes it to the top cover and condensates will drip onto the wood chips. The chips also insulate the top part of the hive. My bees stayed bone dry and well fed this winter 👍🏼. Come spring you need to add boxes (depending on your climate and how quick they build up) and split as needed to prevent swarming.

Candy board instructions:
https://www.honeybeesuite.com/no-cook-candy-board-recipe-for-feeding-winter-bees/

Moisture quilt:
https://www.honeybeesuite.com/how-to-make-a-moisture-quilt-for-a-langstroth-hive/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you feeding with sugar syrup before using your set up? Do you remove queen excluders?
I overwintered for the first time in a single deep last winter. Above the deep I had a shin with a top entrance hole, an eek with 10lbs of sugar in it (directions below) and above that another eek filled with wood chips (directions below). The candy serves as back up food (obviously) but also absorbs moisture. The moist air hits the candy (held with a plastic QE) and it gets absorbed by sugar and softens it making it easy for them to eat. Any remaining moist air that makes it to the top cover and condensates will drip onto the wood chips. The chips also insulate the top part of the hive. My bees stayed bone dry and well fed this winter ����. Come spring you need to add boxes (depending on your climate and how quick they build up) and split as needed to prevent swarming.

Candy board instructions:
https://www.honeybeesuite.com/no-cook-candy-board-recipe-for-feeding-winter-bees/

Moisture quilt:
https://www.honeybeesuite.com/how-to-make-a-moisture-quilt-for-a-langstroth-hive/
 

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Are you feeding with sugar syrup before using your set up? Do you remove queen excluders?
I start feeding 2:1 soon after i treat them for mites. I’ll feed them until November to ensure they backfill with syrup as the queen slows down her laying. I don’t have a QE on top of the brood box so the queen can follow the cluster if it moves up towards the candy board. I also wrap the hives with reflectix (bubble wrap insulation). It insulates the hive and keeps the wind out of any cracks that might not be fully propolized. Entrance on the bottom is small and screened so mice can’t get in.
 

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