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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody using a wand OAV to treat from the top. Will the vapors fall through the hive? I want to do this for two reasons. With a clear top I can see the action and when it is done and no chance of touch any was on the bottom of frames.

You thoughts would be appreciated.

Anthony
 

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My concern is getting the Oxalic acid to hot. Every video I’ve watched the acid turns to a liquid then boils. I don’t know if the boiling point is hot enough to turn into a unless form.
 

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My concern is getting the Oxalic acid to hot. Every video I’ve watched the acid turns to a liquid then boils. I don’t know if the boiling point is hot enough to turn into a unless form.
Oxalic Acid doesn't have a Boiling Point. What you're seeing is the water component - the dihydrate - boiling-off as steam at a little over 100 deg C. Once that water has been removed, the then 'anhydrous' (dry) Oxalic Acid will then sublimate (turn from a solid into a gas without going through a liquid phase) at around 160 deg C. Then, shortly after leaving the heat source, it will cool below it's sublimation temperature - but having been in an invisible vapourised form for a few milliseconds, it will return into it's solid state - but now as a visible cloud of white ultra-fine crystals.
LJ
 

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Oxalic Acid doesn't have a Boiling Point. What you're seeing is the water component - the dihydrate - boiling-off as steam at a little over 100 deg C. Once that water has been removed, the then 'anhydrous' (dry) Oxalic Acid will then sublimate (turn from a solid into a gas without going through a liquid phase) at around 160 deg C. Then, shortly after leaving the heat source, it will cool below it's sublimation temperature - but having been in an invisible vapourised form for a few milliseconds, it will return into it's solid state - but now as a visible cloud of white ultra-fine crystals.
LJ
Kudos!
 

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Anybody using a wand OAV to treat from the top. Will the vapors fall through the hive? I want to do this for two reasons. With a clear top I can see the action and when it is done and no chance of touch any was on the bottom of frames.

You thoughts would be appreciated.

Anthony
I tried it, and it works, but it gets complicated when you have supers on. I built a shim just for this purpose. I used it putting it on, then removing it and it became a lot of unnecessary work. Right now I'm using a 'back' entrance in the bottom board I slip the sublimator into, there are angry bees that follow it out but I don't have be in front of the hives to deal with them. Shoving a hot iron into a beehive is gonna piss off some hives so just accept it as a poor nurse has to accept the wail of a small child as a vaccination is administered.

My bees are gonna buy themselves a new non invasive Provap this year so things will get easier for all of us.

Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Lee - did you build a special tray that slips in above the screen in the bottom board to hold the wand vaporizer? Do you have any pics?

Anthony
 

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I OAV nucs from the top when they have robber screens on, it works fine but does leave a lot of crystals on the top bars. Most of the nucs are double deeps and I've never manually checked for disbursement in triple deeps.

and no, any honey on the nucs are used strictly as "in-house" resources with none being pulled for harvest/sale.

With a clear top I can see the action and when it is done and no chance of touch any was on the bottom of frames.
I don't worry about any wax on the bottom of the frames; if you're worried about it, scrape it off but I've never heard of anyone incinerating a hive while treating. But an FYI, if a wand touches or comes in close contact with the frames it can leave a scorch mark be it on bottom or top of the frames.
 

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OAV from the top is quite easy. I use my ATV as the battery source. I have attached a picture. The round mark on the acrylic sheet is where the vapors hit and then bounce down into the hive, and will reach the bottom entrace hole (plugged for application). The honey supers are off for the OAV. I have two (2) AOV mini-boxes so as to create a system for application. 9ABA6547-FA2D-43A7-8DC4-4AC05A75BE0A.jpg
 

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OAV from the top is quite easy. I use my ATV as the battery source. I have attached a picture. The round mark on the acrylic sheet is where the vapors hit and then bounce down into the hive, and will reach the bottom entrace hole (plugged for application). The honey supers are off for the OAV. I have two (2) AOV mini-boxes so as to create a system for application. View attachment 46037
that looks like a LOT of OA. How much are you using per Hivebox?
 

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Thanks Lee - did you build a special tray that slips in above the screen in the bottom board to hold the wand vaporizer? Do you have any pics?

Anthony
Anthony, I use a solid bottom board, if you'd still like pics I could shoot a couple later today.
Lee
 

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That hive is three (3) deeps and a medium with 1 gram per box. I do not try to compact, and I do not level each spoon so it might be a hair higher rather than lower.
 

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I have treated a hive from the top. I put an extra box on, then a fan (wrapped in a screen and connected to some AA batteries) on top of a few frames. I had the empty box above a shim that I put the vaporizer thru. It seemed to work, and the fan moved the OA vapor down into the hive and around. I could see what was going on with the clear lid I put on top, but this was way more work than it was worth.
 

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The fan was unnecessary; a clear top can show the gaseous fumes bouncing down (off the acrylic glass), subsequent swirling activity, and then downward through the frames. There is also gaseous fumes that will work their way to the lowest front entrance (if you want to experiment and leave it uncovered). Top vaporization is quite simple, and you can watch.
 
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