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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I use an OAV wand with good success, but got tired of burning bees, so I made an "injector." It's not pretty, but it works well:
Sports equipment Wood Flooring Gas Sledgehammer
Sports equipment Wood Flooring Gas Sledgehammer


Basically, I cut the bottom out of the can, siliconed it onto my OAV wand and added a tube. Works best through a 3/8" hole drilled into the back of the hive.

I tried just using the can and a propane torch, but it did not work consistently. Putting it on the wand makes it work right every time. 1/4 tsp. per hive box, and maybe a smidge more just to be sure.
View attachment 66797
View attachment 66796
 

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So what do you use for a heat source...........propane torch to the bottom of the pan?
 

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agreed on that. what is the heat source.........I see no electric cords for a glow plug??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry guys, it's the normal electric OAV wand. I guess the picture didn't show the cord but it's there. It uses a 12 V battery for power.

I'm actually happy with how the wand worked, but it kept burning up bees which stinks. I didn't want to invest in one of the nice units so this is what I came up with
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The can is from PVC cleaner. The only thing you have to remember is after you drop in the OAV, screw the lid on tight, and it works awesomely
 

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Can you load it hot, and flip it over to dispense vapor?

I think the can will be too hot to do that.

I'm not sure how the acid will react starting from cold. Will it bubble up and spit more than vapor?
With a standard vaporizer the pot is at 400° and the acid is dropped in so it flashes.
Coming up from cold the acid may bubble up before flashing to vapor?

Lastly watch for a reaction with the acid contacting tin.


Neccessity is the mother of invention.
And if it does not work well, it is not a failure, it is a learning experience and the next version will be better.
I too have a problem shoving a hot pot into a hive. I could not bring myself to do that. Bought a Lorob.

Anyone local that needs treatment, please contact me.....
 
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2 then 4, now 11 hives- all doing well, thanks to a lot of help and resilient bees!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you load it hot, and flip it over to dispense vapor?

I think the can will be too hot to do that.

I'm not sure how the acid will react starting from cold. Will it bubble up and spit more than vapor?
With a standard vaporizer the pot is at 400° and the acid is dropped in so it flashes.
Coming up from cold the acid may bubble up before flashing to vapor?

Lastly watch for a reaction with the acid contacting tin.


Neccessity is the mother of invention.
And if it does not work well, it is not a failure, it is a learning experience and the next version will be better.
I too have a problem shoving a hot pot into a hive. I could not bring myself to do that. Bought a Lorob.

Anyone local that needs treatment, please contact me.....
Starting from cold is the normal thing. You put the crystals in the pan and plug it in. After maybe 20 seconds, the vapor starts, and it goes for a minute or two, and then it's done. It has always worked great, with vapor coming out of every seam in the hive. After the first batch, I put the crystals in the lid, and then flip it over to activate. Then it vaporizes instantly and again lasts for a minute or so.

I have two hives on one end of the yard and two at the other end. I do the first two, then unplug and walk 100 yards and then do the other two. Because of this, the can doesn't really get particularly hot. If you left it on constantly, I'm sure it would.

I'm pretty happy with this modification, but if I had a bunch of hives, I would probably get one of the ProVap units, or whatever they are called. This is bargain-basement stuff, using a $27 Amazon OAV wand and an old solvent can, but it works for a small-time guy like me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One thing that may be noteworthy to mention.... Since the can is typically cold, some of the OAV crystalizes inside, so every once in a while you have to clean out the tube. A few seconds with a drill bit is the easiest way I have found. I use 3/8 tsp. of OA per box instead of a 1/4 to cover any that may stick to the inside of the can or tube.

I have never let my tube get blocked, but I've seen on YouTube where the OAV built up pressure and blew the lid off. I don't plan to ever let that happen, but if you have a lot of hives to do, that would be something to consider. Maybe carry a cordless drill with you and use as needed.

I guess I'm bad, but I've never used a respirator or breathed any in. I just stand upwind, hold my breath and let it do it's thing. I guess I should probably get one, just to be careful. A lung full of acid doesn't sound very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just came across Johno's post about an OAV machine he made, and I like his idea of insulation:


I'm going to insulate mine today, before doing another OAV treatment. That should help reduce condensation inside the can.
He had better wash that arm off, if that is OAV. It's not super-strong acid, but it will burn after a while. I use it to remove nasty stains from the boat, and it's awesome. Look at how fast it works:
 

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Contrary to the belief of many, dry oxalic acid is practically harmless. just add water if you are looking for trouble, so no I did not wash that OA off my arm, I just brushed it off. It sticks mostly onto the hair and brushes off easily. Remember your eyes have water in them and also any small cuts you may have on your fingers or hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would not have thought about steam cleaning the tube. Does acid water drip out? I guess that's no worse than the acid dust that falls to the ground, and you don't have to carry a drill. I might try that sometime.

Johno, that's a pretty neat demonstration photo. I'm guessing you were demonstrating that OAV not crazy-hot coming out of the tube?
 

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At that time many experts were claiming that the OA was being overheated and as breaking down to formic acid and CO2 so the demonstration was to prove otherwise. But still in many quarters that old theory continues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Funny that you talk about overheating. Today I forgot to unplug my unit when preparing for the next hive. The pan got super-hot, and the silicone let go. Bummer! First time I've seen that. but I've never let it get that hot before. I'll just silicone it back on, no big deal. I finished the last two by putting the pan under the screen bottom, and it worked pretty almost the same, and no scorched bees.
 

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Funny that you talk about overheating. Today I forgot to unplug my unit when preparing for the next hive. The pan got super-hot, and the silicone let go. Bummer! First time I've seen that. but I've never let it get that hot before. I'll just silicone it back on, no big deal. I finished the last two by putting the pan under the screen bottom, and it worked pretty almost the same, and no scorched bees.
Thill, I have seen some of those pans get hot enough to start melting the aluminum block, that is the reason band heater vaporizers are temperature controlled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That makes sense. When I realized it had been left on, the pan was so hot that it had expanded and lost its "grip" on the wand. It spun, causing the can to come off, leaving me confused for a moment. I unplugged it, and once everything cooled off, it was fine, but lesson learned! Keep it unplugged unless in use.

Maybe I should add a switch into the system, or even a rheostat. A wall dimmer should work for that.

I dunno... I have enough projects. I probably will just keep using it as is, and remember to unplug as soon as I'm done. But this is a good warning for anyone who reads this.
 
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