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It appears to me that many new beekeepers seem to get their advice from posts such as " my first hive of my 1000" you need to look him up to see how he is getting along. These forums have a lot of information in them and it is best to try and see if the information comes from a source that has kept many bees for a long period of time and learn to sift the wheat from the chaff otherwise you end up being an aspiring beekeeper for a short ammount of time before moving on to something else. The information you need is all in here all you need to do is find it.
 

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If you want to do your OAV for free , read up about it in Equipment and hardware, take a look at band heater vaporizer. You might also look at the first post date and find it is before the Pro Vap came along, That thread was set for beekeepers to make their own vaporizers. All the other bandheater vaporizers came about from beekeepers who decided to rather buy than make their own. I have used OAV alone for more than 8 years and could not have done so with OAD.
 

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Beware of the experts who would guess at the weight of their hives by lifting the hive from behind and then scoff of the idea of lifting the hive from behind with a $7 luggage scale and writing the weight on the back of the hive.
 

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Anyone seen any information in the beekeeping comunity where any other oxalic acid other than oxalic acid dihydrate is used? It would be safe to say that when any treatment with oxalic acid is mentioned, the chemical mentioned would be oxalic acid dihydrate. Therefore the term dihydrate should not even come into the equation. If one was to look at the price of anhydrous oxalic acid you would realize why that is so. So MSL your little tiff about terminology is just to muddy the waters.
 

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Quite frankly as far as I am concerned those laws are not worth the paper they are written on, None of those pointy headed persons know anything about the stuff and its use for bees anyhow. I am quite sure if you used anhydrous oxalic acid and it sublimed into the hive it would work just as well as the dihydrate, however just look up the stuff in Amazon and look at its price. It would be cheaper to use the amitraz based stuff.
 

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When making up your dribble mixture I believe you have to be very careful not to exceed and OA percentage pf 3.5 to 4%. From what I have read in the past is that if you get your sums wrong and the OA percentage gets higher than it should be it can be disasterous to the treated colony. Not so with Vapor. Now about amitraz, ask Bob Binnie if he was happy with the results of something like $30,000 for Apivar treatments in his operation. I hear of more and more cases where the Amitraz basd treatments are failing.Formic acid is the only Treatment that is supposed to kill mites in brood, Apivar has to remain in the hive for two brood cycles as it only effects mites that are out of the brood. In that case OAV every 4 or 5 days over two brood cycles would be just as effective as Apivar with no residue left in thecomb either.
 

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When making up your dribble mixture I believe you have to be very careful not to exceed and OA percentage pf 3.5 to 4%. From what I have read in the past is that if you get your sums wrong and the OA percentage gets higher than it should be it can be disasterous to the treated colony. Not so with Vapor. Now about amitraz, ask Bob Binnie if he was happy with the results of something like $30,000 for Apivar treatments in his operation. I hear of more and more cases where the Amitraz basd treatments are failing.Formic acid is the only Treatment that is supposed to kill mites in brood, Apivar has to remain in the hive for two brood cycles as it only effects mites that are out of the brood. In that case OAV every 4 or 5 days over two brood cycles would be just as effective as Apivar with no residue left in thecomb either.
 

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In that video from the Bee Wellness group note the coparisons on the miticides used, 1st OAV, mite fall only no counts, and too many treatments taken to stop mites falls All the others alcohol mite counts, and when one does not fit in then its a mistake with the wrong hive.Also when OAE does not work with the trials from Georgia it has to be from mite migration. In the OAV tests there were a hell of a lot of mites killed even though the treatments were spaced quite far apart, so maybe using the same words, must have been from mite migration.
 

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Greg I know there were some tests done way back using water and OA and they were found to be unsuccessful in mite control and I think it was due to the fact that the OA water solution did not stick to bees well enough. This then led to the OA in a sugar water solution which did have the downside ofsome bees ingesting the solution, but the latest idea is the glyserin/ OA mix as the glyserin tends to be the sticker and bees would not eat it.
 

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Some of the stuff I read was more than 10 years ago so probably predate the paper you have there, I think the stickyness of the mixture meant that when dribbling there was more chance of the stuff sticking onto bees and also there would be more of a grooming trend which would also help tp spread it around. However I thought that the concenteation of OA was in the 3% to 4% in dribble as against your paper it seems 0.1%to 0.5% also the bees are sprayed to the extent that they talk about bees submerged. Anyway not my problem as I am an OAV guy anyhow.
 
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