Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Beesource.com Sponsor
Hives and Nucs
Joined
·
266 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My back is toast. Even 8-frame equipment is tough for me. Last year we started a Nuc hive, adding deep and medium Nuc boxes on as needed. That hive made it through the winter and this year we added two more Nuc Hives and kept one 10-frame hive. You do need to keep an eye on these 5-frame hives in the spring, they build up fast and you need to add boxes to keep them from swarming. But they are light and easy to move, even full of honey.
The attached photo shows 2 of our Nuc Hives (the middle set is empty) with a weatherproofed migratory top that has a hole in the middle to use with jar feeders. We have a deep over that with a lid. Inside are ½ gallon glass feeders with Nozevit in a 2/1 thick syrup. I’m getting ready to give the girls their second fall dose (two doses 10 days apart). I also have pollen patties in the top hive body that has the spacer rims.
Country Rubes carries a complete line of weatherproofed Nuc Equipment including Nuc Combo Screened Bottom Boards, solid bottom boards, medium & deeps, robbing screens, spacers, mounted Beetle Baffles, oil trays (use Diatomaceous Earth, so much cleaner) and entrance reducers.
Sorry about the turned picture. Can not figure out to rotate it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
If someone wanted to try running a narrower-width hive w/o buying extra equipment to start out they could use a pair of follower boards in any regular-sized (8- or 10-frame) box to make the interior smaller and fill the space outboard of that with foam panels. (Use HVAC tape to cover the foam's exposed edges to prevent bee-gnawing.)

You might find that some odd-ball size, perhaps 7 frames, was the sweet spot for both ease of handling and for managing the bees, too. Once you knew what worked for you, your bees and your particular climate then you invest in a full range of equipment in that size. Meanwhile you'd be using all your old equipment (bases, tops, excluders, bee-escapes, etc.)

Enj.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Have you looked into Top Bar Hives, that is one way to solve the back issue?
 

·
Beesource.com Sponsor
Hives and Nucs
Joined
·
266 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes, we were talking about making a version of a top bar with square bottoms so we could use our frames. Sort of a coffin hive. I like the idea that you can easily change frames with all of our existing equipment.
Time is our big problem, but it's on the list. (you should see our list).
 

·
Beesource.com Sponsor
Hives and Nucs
Joined
·
266 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, that is a great idea, I love follower boards and we use them in our 10-frame hives.
Right now we are trying not to use plastic in the hive.
We used to use insulation foam boards on and in our hive. About 8 or 9 years ago, we decided to remove all the plastic from the hives and go with foundationless frames. We made the exception to use Honey Super Cell Frames so we could regress our bees. On our medium frames, we can run those through the hand cranked extractor. You have to set them out overnight and every so often we would get a blow out.
I do have to say, since we have gone with natural cell, are mite loads are very low or non-existent. We do get high mite counts when our neighboring commercial beekeepers come back from almonds. We still only use powdered sugar to knock the mites down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
LOL. Just got rid of all our "Longstroth" hives. Had 6 and not a single one ever overwintered unless supering. Tried all kinds of feeders, vent boxes, insulation, etc. and every year they starved out. Having great success with our Lang's though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
I thought that the "hive designs" thread by Fusion_power describing among other things the modified square Dadant jumbo was fascinating. I also thought that placing 6-frame (yes, nonstandard) probably medium supers on top of the square brood box in pairs, sized just to fit, would be a primo back-saver. Guess why I'm thinking about this. At 6-frame width, they could even be deeps. Or Langstroth jumbos at 11-1/8", for the present. While it's not _yet_ a crucial thing for me, it may become more important.

But I thought the square layout looked interesting and that using paired supers with a 2:1 aspect ratio would make them stack beautifully on the square bottom box.
 

·
Beesource.com Sponsor
Hives and Nucs
Joined
·
266 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Have a look at this Long langstroth hive. It's full of ideas. And it's a beautiful hive.


That is a beautiful hive, so well thought out. I love that you use standard equipment. I hear of so many people having several Long Hives and not being able to interchange.
Looking forward to more videos.
PS. My back is back to normal and I'm back to 10 frame deeps. Our nuc condos were really sucessful, except for swarming. Had to watch them so carefully, but the plus side, lots of splits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,486 Posts
LOL. Just got rid of all our "Longstroth" hives. Had 6 and not a single one ever overwintered unless supering. Tried all kinds of feeders, vent boxes, insulation, etc. and every year they starved out. Having great success with our Lang's though!
The thermodynamics of long hives is pretty bad if you take a look at it. They lose or gain too much heat as the dynamics of airflow are inefficient.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top